Periodic problem... 10/29

[tonypep]

Royals or Marine pigments are short bodied and weak. The opposite can be said of yellows. Weight a gal of each.

[ScreenFoo]

I usually see the coolest patterns from an underbase and overprint mesh that are the same count but stretched just a bit different--the neat one to me was the guy on TSF with two 110's that did this.    

Always seemed to me this was usually an interaction between the mesh marks in an underbase, and where the knuckles of your overprint screen fall--but I base this on absolutely nothing but the WTF prints I've seen. 

If you need the detail of a high mesh screen, try tossing Union Maxo's in your blue screens and try to reproduce this problem...   
Of course, the transparent blues usually look the best... but only if anyone's paying that much attention.

[DCSP John]

We have always been able to compensate for this issue by swapping out for a high opacity blue...
However, when its a custom PMS color, its not as easy as a quick color swap...

We will try and forward think the color builds, using thin threads for blues that require underbasing...
I learned something new today. Thanks, fellas...

John

[ZooCity]

Foo, I'm with ya on the mesh weave/knuckle patterning.  Sometimes using the same mesh for UB and top color is no bueno and I always suspected it was because of this.  A 225/40 sometimes covers/looks much better over a white 150/48 base than another 150/48, for example.

[3Deep]

Ok, I learn something today too, so whats with union columbia blue being so tacky, just when you think you got screen printing down...comes another curve LOL

[Doug B]

  I CAN get this problem on both manual and auto. Sometimes it's the weave but
I can usually eliminate it by changing squegee pressure/angle. Especially with
manual that is the culprit. On the auto it can be pressure, angle OR speed or a
combination of any or all of the above.