Aquasol HVP help

[Extreme Screen Prints]

You know what, We use MS hardner from Murakami, I don't know why i said A&B, yes we reclaim all our screens very easily, we did away with the dip tank and have a much better and faster reclaim process now. Take my word for it and try Ulano qt discharge and you'll never look back. We have used Aquasol HVP and Sp1400 but the ulano wins hands down. We do a lot of discharge process work and blowing out 5% dots is not a fight with Qt discharge.

[alan802]

Our breakdown issues were from underexposure with HVP.  A screen can show no physical signs of underexposure and pass all the usual tests that we can see and feel yet not be fully exposed for DC printing.  I think the reason people are seeing better screens with thinner stencils is not because thick stencils don't work with DC, but because fully crosslinking the emulsion is much harder and correct DC exposure is miscalculated with more emulsion on the screen.  We can burn an HVP for 3 light units on a 180/48 for plastisol and it won't have any signs of underexposure, but that same screen will break down on press within 100 shirts unless we burn it for 18-20 light units.  Now that we've at least tripled our expo times for DC screens we haven't had screens break down until the 1800-2000 piece mark.  We still don't use diazo but we use hardener and the HVP for blockout, then post expose via sun or expo unit.

[Extreme Screen Prints]

I agree with Alan but from my experience we lose detail when coating thick, We have a 5,000 watt light source so we don't have trouble exposing fully but it is very hard to get all the water out of a heavily coated screen, You can overexpose a screen 10 times the amount and if there's any moisture left in the screen it will not be fully exposed for waterbase/discharge and I think that's where the breakdown comes from. We keep our screen room at 100 degrees with a large dehumidifier in the room and ever since have not had breakdown.