Author Topic: 100% Poly Question  (Read 2976 times)

Offline Prosperi-Tees

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100% Poly Question
« on: July 31, 2013, 02:26:02 PM »
I have some black 100% poly shirts to do with a white and yellow print. I will be using Rutland Super Poly white and a custom pms simulation using my QCM mixing system. Is the regular plastisol ok on top of the poly ink?


Offline Binkspot

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Re: 100% Poly Question
« Reply #1 on: July 31, 2013, 02:50:25 PM »
It will cure at a higher temp then the poly ink defeating the purpose of using it.

Offline Rob Coleman

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Re: 100% Poly Question
« Reply #2 on: July 31, 2013, 02:57:14 PM »
It will cure at a higher temp then the poly ink defeating the purpose of using it.

According to the Rutland Tech Sheet - this is a 320F cure product.  So standard cure colors on top should be fine.
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Offline Colin

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Re: 100% Poly Question
« Reply #3 on: July 31, 2013, 03:06:26 PM »
You should be fine.  I use the Super Poly at work and we have encountered zero issues with plastisol color overprints.  But we also cure through a gas dryer no higher than 330 degrees.

The main concern is this:  If the poly ink contains peroxides there are some things to consider.  When peroxides are activated curing cure, they can destroy certain pigments.  Most notably blues and reds.  So when testing, always look for possible color shift.

You also want to make sure you keep the temp low and the speed slow.  This will help to keep the blowing agent under control and minimize/eliminate possible fisheye effects from the chemical reactions taking pace in the ink during cure.
Been in the industry since 1996.  5+ years with QCM Inks.  Been a part of shops of all sizes and abilities both as a printer and as an Artist/separator.  I am now the Ink and Chemical Product Manager at Ryonet.

Offline Prosperi-Tees

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Re: 100% Poly Question
« Reply #4 on: July 31, 2013, 03:08:51 PM »
Great advice. Thanks guys. I will test test test before starting production on 400 pieces for sure.

Offline Gilligan

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Re: 100% Poly Question
« Reply #5 on: July 31, 2013, 03:25:27 PM »
Yeah, we had problems with blue on top of Poly White... it looked like it bubbled.  Maybe too hot. 

Few pcs for a friend so it wasn't a huge issue, but we weren't happy in house.

Offline Prosperi-Tees

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Re: 100% Poly Question
« Reply #6 on: July 31, 2013, 03:35:51 PM »
Crazy thing is we did this job last year and we were totally not happy with the outcome. Major bleeding going on. I think we flashed em to hot. But here they are ordering again this year. Go figure they were happy!

Offline Prosperi-Tees

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Re: 100% Poly Question
« Reply #7 on: August 02, 2013, 12:20:21 PM »
Ok this is not the job I started this thread about but is somewhat kinda the same question. This is a rush job and I have no poly inks besides white. If you look at this art what would you do considering if I underbase the whole thing I would not be able to register the red dots and splats and if I choke the underbase alot of the dots and splats will be lost. What if I just print red plastisol on top of the garment with no underbase? What would happen? Would the red turn black or will it just become a darker red?

Offline GaryG

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Re: 100% Poly Question
« Reply #8 on: August 02, 2013, 12:32:56 PM »
Yea I'd underbase the larger areas of red and let the others
fall on shirt- as opaque of a red as possible like Maxo.

Don't get to hot! It will almost disappear.
Test, test

Offline Admiral

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Re: 100% Poly Question
« Reply #9 on: August 02, 2013, 12:49:09 PM »
It will definitely get darker but if you have a red with some bleed resistance or at least put down a good layer I think you would be okay.

Offline ebscreen

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Re: 100% Poly Question
« Reply #10 on: August 02, 2013, 01:15:49 PM »
Underbase everything. We've done regular top colors over poly bases often with no ill effects.

Don't choke the UB under the red detail areas, spread the top color instead.

Offline Prosperi-Tees

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Re: 100% Poly Question
« Reply #11 on: August 02, 2013, 01:16:34 PM »
Cool thanks guys.