Shurloc 125 frame

[Doug S]

Has anyone tried the shurloc 125 frame?.  I have the 150 ez frame and they work great.  I'm about to buy some more and was just curious as to whether they were as sturdy as far as not warping or bending after being stretched.  The price seems attractive compared to the thicker ones.

[chubsetc]

I got 18 of them a couple months ago and really like them.  The long side does bend in a bit under tension but the frame does not warp at all and stays flat.  For the amount of time I have used them they get 2 thumbs up.

[Doug S]

I got 18 of them a couple months ago and really like them.  The long side does bend in a bit under tension but the frame does not warp at all and stays flat.  For the amount of time I have used them they get 2 thumbs up.

Thanks for the input.  I'm going to give them a try especially since they are around 30 dollars cheaper.

[Prosperi-Tees]

what are you guys using for the tensioning? I have about a dozen of the 23x31 EZ that I picked up in trade that I never used. I looked on Shurlocs website and notice they have 2, one costing $200 and the other $600. What's the difference?

[chubsetc]

I use the less expensive one.  It requires a stop bar to be mounted on the table you are stretching on.  The more expensive one is their original and is one inclusive unit with the stop bar and stretcher all in one so you can use it on any table.  You shouldn't have to stretch them very often so you could easily mount the stop bar on a table just when you need to stretch and then take it off to use the table for other purposes.  I would save the $$$ and go for the cheaper one.

Just as an aside, it took me a few busted panels to learn how to get them stretched correctly.  The instructions weren't great but in speaking to them after they realized that.  I'm not sure if they ammended the directions but you can use a little dish soap between the frame and tensioning bars to get them to slide into place a bit easier.

[Prosperi-Tees]

I use the less expensive one.  It requires a stop bar to be mounted on the table you are stretching on.  The more expensive one is their original and is one inclusive unit with the stop bar and stretcher all in one so you can use it on any table.  You shouldn't have to stretch them very often so you could easily mount the stop bar on a table just when you need to stretch and then take it off to use the table for other purposes.  I would save the $$$ and go for the cheaper one.

Just as an aside, it took me a few busted panels to learn how to get them stretched correctly.  The instructions weren't great but in speaking to them after they realized that.  I'm not sure if they ammended the directions but you can use a little dish soap between the frame and tensioning bars to get them to slide into place a bit easier.

Cool good info. I keep searching for things to make my printing manually easier so I may invest a few hundred into the stretcher and some panels. Did you find that you have to go up a mesh count because of the increased tensions?

[chubsetc]

I would use the mesh counts you are used to using.  I think mesh count is more of a function of your printing parameters (squeegee angle/pressure/speed) and ink selection.  If you see after use a need to start moving up to the next mesh count then start replacing them as you see fit.  But if you're trying to make printing manually easier you may find yourself pushing harder than you'd like to get ink through a higher mesh screen, even with the higher tension.  Just my 2 cents though.

[Doug S]

what are you guys using for the tensioning? I have about a dozen of the 23x31 EZ that I picked up in trade that I never used. I looked on Shurlocs website and notice they have 2, one costing $200 and the other $600. What's the difference?

I use the cheaper one.  I just built a table and mounted the bar to it.  It works fine.