Author Topic: what chemicals should i try?  (Read 6915 times)

Offline screenprintguy

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Re: what chemicals should i try?
« Reply #15 on: June 25, 2013, 05:10:17 PM »
CCI IW107= $114 for 5 gals, Easyway 701 $230 for 5 gals, CCI's is stronger, does a better dehaze and degrease job, easily removes any glues ect, does not harm ridged frame glue if you use ridgeds, and is half the price, kind of a no brainer after we tried it vs 701 or korkem.
Evolutionary Screen Printing & Embroidery
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Offline SeñorPepperHead

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Re: what chemicals should i try?
« Reply #16 on: June 26, 2013, 08:00:32 AM »
Try the CCI IW-107 for plastisol ink remover, dehazer and degreaser combo
SenorpepperHead, what is the best stain remover that does not damage the mesh?
CCI's LSR-20 if you have a little time to wait on it. It takes a little extra time to work but the results are exceptional. While the product is dwelling you can do other stuff and then come back with no worries.

Offline Rockers

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Re: what chemicals should i try?
« Reply #17 on: June 26, 2013, 08:46:03 AM »
Try the CCI IW-107 for plastisol ink remover, dehazer and degreaser combo
SenorpepperHead, what is the best stain remover that does not damage the mesh?
CCI's LSR-20 if you have a little time to wait on it. It takes a little extra time to work but the results are exceptional. While the product is dwelling you can do other stuff and then come back with no worries.
I assume you mean LSR-30. No LSR-20 on the CCI website if I`m not mistaken. And the LSR-3o is mesh safe?

Offline inkman996

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Re: what chemicals should i try?
« Reply #18 on: June 26, 2013, 09:18:40 AM »
LSR-20 used to eat the mesh over time, I think they have improved the formula to make it mesh safe.  But it will remove the worse stains possible. Expensive and ships hazardous or at least it used to. I think LSR-30 does as well.
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Offline ScreenFoo

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Re: what chemicals should i try?
« Reply #19 on: June 26, 2013, 12:38:25 PM »
They used to have LSR-10, LSR-20, and LSR-30. 
Wouldn't let it near high mesh myself, although as just pointed out, it will take ANYTHING off mesh.  Including mesh. 

Is LSR-20 a different formulation?  IIRC, the LSR-30 is a degreaser and sodium hydroxide product...
Might have been mistaken into thinking the Renuit was their walk-away HR.

Offline inkman996

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Re: what chemicals should i try?
« Reply #20 on: June 26, 2013, 02:19:27 PM »
They used to have LSR-10, LSR-20, and LSR-30. 
Wouldn't let it near high mesh myself, although as just pointed out, it will take ANYTHING off mesh.  Including mesh. 

Is LSR-20 a different formulation?  IIRC, the LSR-30 is a degreaser and sodium hydroxide product...
Might have been mistaken into thinking the Renuit was their walk-away HR.

Back when I worked on the supply side any of the LSR's were not mesh safe, all shipped hazardous. When they introduced Re Nuit it was the walk away non hazard ship option. Reading CCI's web site recently they claim all the LSR's can dry on the screen because of mesh safe formula, definitely new but it still ships hazardous. None of them compare to GB200 that stuff can remove tattoos.
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Offline Gilligan

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Re: what chemicals should i try?
« Reply #21 on: June 26, 2013, 04:56:41 PM »
In the past, I have read re nuit was the way to go and was about to dig up the info because my guy is getting frustrated with some haze and we only really us s mesh... So he's very cautious of what he puts on it. Right now I think we either only use 701 or he might have a franmar product... Either way it's not enough and he wants something better.

Is Re Nuit safe for delicate mesh?  We only use natural sea sponges on our mesh to "agitate" the chemicals... Maybe over kill but it's what Allan Buffington suggested and we haven't busted any mesh since!

Offline ZooCity

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Re: what chemicals should i try?
« Reply #22 on: June 26, 2013, 05:53:06 PM »
Sea sponge is overkill although we do use them for initial degreasing on new mesh, seems to help "squish" the degreaser in better to remove the handling conditioners on the mesh.  Red scotchbrite is fine on S mesh. 

Offline Gilligan

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Re: what chemicals should i try?
« Reply #23 on: June 26, 2013, 07:27:09 PM »
Sea sponge is overkill although we do use them for initial degreasing on new mesh, seems to help "squish" the degreaser in better to remove the handling conditioners on the mesh.  Red scotchbrite is fine on S mesh.


We were using these:


Offline ZooCity

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Re: what chemicals should i try?
« Reply #24 on: June 26, 2013, 09:09:21 PM »
I think the blue might be a little too punchy for mesh.  We use red but have also used the more gentle white.  I'm assuming color coding is the same across brands of scrubbies here though. 

Offline Gilligan

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Re: what chemicals should i try?
« Reply #25 on: June 26, 2013, 10:01:11 PM »
Hmm. I'll have to see if I can find them... But my guy isn't complaining.

Offline ScreenFoo

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Re: what chemicals should i try?
« Reply #26 on: June 26, 2013, 10:11:45 PM »
I like sponges for high mesh.  Problem with scrubbies:  Poly brush, poly mesh.  Which one is tougher? 

If the red or white ones are actually softer I may have to look back into them...


Offline ZooCity

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Re: what chemicals should i try?
« Reply #27 on: June 26, 2013, 10:20:55 PM »
I know the white scotchies are what are used on the finer tableware at restaurants so it's probably soft enough.  I like the muscle of the red ones.

Offline KevWilso

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Re: what chemicals should i try?
« Reply #28 on: July 22, 2013, 11:11:35 AM »
The lighter the color of the brush pad the less abrasive the pad is, and the darker the pad the more abrasive it is.  I am pretty sure everyone who makes brushes follows this standard code.

The order:
White
Red
Blue
Black
Kevin Wilson
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