Printing on coaches jackets

[TCT]

We need to print on some coaches jackets, they have the nylon outer shell and lining. The cheapo ones you used to see everywhere from Jerzeys(these are from Augusta). We have never really done larger orders of them so smoothing them out and printing them on the manual was never a issue. Well, we have to do a bunch of them now, 1color. Any advice for running them on the auto without a jacket hold down?

[mk162]

use a decent amount of glue and make sure the backs are wrinkle free.  They should print fine, just don't over heat them.

You might want to run the bad ones through the oven at a low temp to flatten the nylon out...just before printing them.

[balloonguy]

I am no help... but what ink are you using? I have to print some of those too? I was debating the silicone ink from nazdar. Or should I use a normal white with nylabond?
Thanks,
matt

[mk162]

i tested the silicone ink on some poly woven jackets and it peeled off.  I would go either One Step Nylon or use nylobond.

I actually have been using some All-purpose Vinyl ink on jackets and it works well, gives a really matte finish, but I haven't tested white ink yet, mostly colors.

[TCT]

We have always just used nylabond, guess that is what I was going to use, hadn't given much thought to it(can you tell). I was just dreading the time involved in "de-wrinkling" 900+ jackets

[inkman996]

Brad his problem is the lining. With out a hold down it is going to be frustrating to say the least. Every print will lift the outer shell and probably smear. I would bite the bullet and print them all manual with a hold down.

[3Deep]

I would do what Ink said print them on a manual, I would think an auto with out a hole down would toss them off, but if you do try an run them on the auto I would preheat them with the flash first and print, even on a manual we would always preheat then print.  If you figure out how to run them on an auto without a hold down by all means let all know.

Darryl

[mk162]

Probably not a bad idea.  i have printed them before on the auto without a jacket hold down.  Single stroke, and a good white and you should be fine, even with the lining isue.

[TCT]

Probably not a bad idea.  i have printed them before on the auto without a jacket hold down.  Single stroke, and a good white and you should be fine, even with the lining isue.

How did you handle the lining and getting it to no be wrinkled/bunched up?

[Inkworks]

You can use bull clips to tension the material by clamping the jacket under the platen, but that is very time consuming. If you can get away without PFP, I'd look at building a hold-down for your manual, it can be done on top of the platen with a raised board and embroidery hoop or even ring of plywood.

[TCT]

There won't be any PFP. These are 1 colors, 1 hit and they are done. Just wanted to know if there are any tricks to getting the lining to lay smooth quickly.

[Inkworks]

Take a sheet of 3/8-5/8 plywood, MDF or what-have-you, using a jig saw cut the middle out of it 2" bigger all-around than your print size. Sand the cut edges and double-sided tape it to your platen with the print centered on it and normal off-contact etc. take the outside ring of the board and sand and masking tape the cut edge.

put the jacket on the platen over the board center and position it for the print, take the outside ring of the plywood and push it down to clamp the jacket in place. print, lather, rinse, repeat.

Depending on how thick the jacket & lining are you may need more clearance than the jig-saw blade left, so you may need to sand the outside ring of the plywood a little more to give the right fit.

here is a little more complex home-brew design, same principle though:

http://www.screenprince.com/custom/mytoolsofthetrade/jacketholddown.htm

For 900 pcs. spending the time to build a good one should pay off on this job alone.

[Action1]

Brad his problem is the lining. With out a hold down it is going to be frustrating to say the least. Every print will lift the outer shell and probably smear. I would bite the bullet and print them all manual with a hold down.

Greetings TCT -

If you do decide that a hold down is the way to go - We have these in stock. The one that we send you for your manual can also work on your automatic. Here's the page if you are interested -
http://www.actionengineering.com/Cat-24-1-502/Specialty_Application_Pallets.htm

[TCT]

Brad his problem is the lining. With out a hold down it is going to be frustrating to say the least. Every print will lift the outer shell and probably smear. I would bite the bullet and print them all manual with a hold down.

Greetings TCT -

If you do decide that a hold down is the way to go - We have these in stock. The one that we send you for your manual can also work on your automatic. Here's the page if you are interested -
http://www.actionengineering.com/Cat-24-1-502/Specialty_Application_Pallets.htm

How are you guys able to make them work for a manual and a auto?

Take a sheet of 3/8-5/8 plywood, MDF or what-have-you, using a jig saw cut the middle out of it 2" bigger all-around than your print size. Sand the cut edges and double-sided tape it to your platen with the print centered on it and normal off-contact etc. take the outside ring of the board and sand and masking tape the cut edge.

put the jacket on the platen over the board center and position it for the print, take the outside ring of the plywood and push it down to clamp the jacket in place. print, lather, rinse, repeat.

Depending on how thick the jacket & lining are you may need more clearance than the jig-saw blade left, so you may need to sand the outside ring of the plywood a little more to give the right fit.

here is a little more complex home-brew design, same principle though:

http://www.screenprince.com/custom/mytoolsofthetrade/jacketholddown.htm

For 900 pcs. spending the time to build a good one should pay off on this job alone.

Thanks Ink, we already have a hold down for our manual, just didn't want to have to print that many jackets on the manual!

[Inkworks]

On the auto with a second person helping load/clamp you might get away with decent speed. Bull clips are your friend. it's just jackets are an expensive thing to have any rejects on.



If it's a design with some big open areas of ink coverage I'd just go with the jacket hold down on the manual.