screen printing > Separations

proper way to sep/print 2 white screens of same image

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shellyky:
Wats the proper way to seperate 2 white screens of the same image (to avoid revolver)...should i just burn the same thing 2x? should i choke one?? if so, the top or the bottom?  I had sent out a file to be done as a test and they had choked the top white.

Are there any tips on figuring out "which one to move" when it doesnt line up 100%?  when its just slightly off i have a heck of a time figuring out which one was the one i just printed in order to figure out which one to move--magnifying glass helps a little but im still just guessing.

And finally, for white on black done this way, what are your screen mesh #'s of choice? 

thanks  8)

inkman996:
My trick for registering is after printing the first white I put a piece of scotch tape over each bulls eye then line up the second white and print it. I can easily tell which bulls eye is the top one because it is on top of the tape. Hope that helps.

SkylinePrints:
I dont choke either.  I burn the same image twice.  First hit on I use a 230, then the second is a 158.  The ink deposit is different from each screen so I can tell which one is off.

This is what work for me but I'm sure some others will join in how they do it. 

Dottonedan:
To me, if te art is solid as in no halftone dots, and you are printing white over white, you have no reason to choke one or the other. Your concern should be to have it registered dead in. Inkmann has a good method. It's also what Pierre uses.

The white is intended to be 100% white (all over).
So why choke it?  You normally only choke a color so the it does not peak out the side and show it's color. In this case, white is white. If it's off a little, it won't ve noticed.

The only reason I can see choking I guess is to help maintain a clean edge. If that is the goal, then you would choke the top color for sure.

Imagine how they build peramids. They get smaller as they get higher. If they did the opposite of that, the 2nd layer would collapse over the first and you would see a stair step down. That would give you a funky edge. So if you feel the need to choke, choke the top color.

blue moon:

--- Quote from: Dottonedan on July 03, 2011, 10:41:34 AM ---To me, if te art is solid as in no halftone dots, and you are printing white over white, you have no reason to choke one or the other. Your concern should be to have it registered dead in. Inkmann has a good method. It's also what Pierre uses.

The white is intended to be 100% white (all over).
So why choke it?  You normally only choke a color so the it does not peak out the side and show it's color. In this case, white is white. If it's off a little, it won't ve noticed.

The only reason I can see choking I guess is to help maintain a clean edge. If that is the goal, then you would choke the top color for sure.

Imagine how they build peramids. They get smaller as they get higher. If they did the opposite of that, the 2nd layer would collapse over the first and you would see a stair step down. That would give you a funky edge. So if you feel the need to choke, choke the top color.

--- End quote ---

as mentioned already, the clear tape over registration marks solves the issue. As far as the choking, I do not unless there is a specific reason. The edges on the print are not as crisp if they do not line up. Make them both the same size.

When would I choke? If the screens are not identical and there is a gradient. Hitting the halftone twice will make it gain too much so I'll split the screens and then I might have to choke a little.

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