Favorite DC white?

[TCT]

some other concerns are what mesh count are you using, what squeegee, 2 passes or 1, what % activator?

I haven't been that amazed by the CCI D-white so I will probably try the Rutland soon but I heard it's a lot more expensive too.

It is worth every penny. I was a die hard CCI user until I tried it. Brighter than every test I ran with the two. Works better on tri-blends and 50/50's in my opinion as well. You know that old saying. You get what you pay for....

We also had real good luck with the Rutland on blends and things that usually wouldn't discharge well.
I don't remember off the top of my head what our CCI D-White ran,  I can check when I get in this morning, but the Rutland was like $330 or something close I believe.

[Rockers]

I have tried ALL of them except Rutland, because they suck at servicing accounts in GA.  Magna SuperWhite SMOKES all of them!  And no, Rob didn't ask me to say this.

I totally agree, the Magna Super White is the best out there.

[nobrainsd]

I'm using the Magna with the non zfs activator. Has a little smell when you are right over it, but the rest of the shop is not stinky at all. I am relegated to garage printer status right now, so the non zfs activator was the only way for me to go DC without annoying the neighbors. Worth it for me to deal with the Activator M shipping issues (cause I'm not getting direct truck shipments from Nazdar so I have to pick it up myself).

The Superwhite is really creamy, but I'm not sure I would call it runny. I do add a little water (around 5%). Printing manually  the ink sits more on the screen and the water helps a lot.

[TCT]

Hey Guys, SO I was wrong the CCI D-White didn't turn out light brown/gray/silver like I said. When I brought it up to the guys, turns out that was just the base. The D-White does come out nice! We ran a bunch of it today and I am rather pleased with it.
Just thought I would update that so people in the future don't get the wrong idea!

[ericheartsu]

we've been running CCI white on red tees all day, and it looks great.

[Nick Bane]

the CCI Dwhite and Dbases also come in a "sweet" version that smells like baked vanilla instead of the normal baked urine smell, soo totally worth it, seeing as its the same price.

[GaryG]

Sounds neat, how do you make sure you get the better smelling?
NFS?

[Denis Kolar]

Let me just in into the DC discussion. I have just received the Discharge sample kit from Nazdar and I wanted to give it a shot.

The biggest problem for me is that I work from my basement

My question would be: Is there a DC color that does not smell really bad?
I see you mention CCI Dwhite and Magna. I have received Magna sample, but I do not know if it came with ZSF activator or "the other" one.

Thanks

[JBLUE]

Let me just in into the DC discussion. I have just received the Discharge sample kit from Nazdar and I wanted to give it a shot.

The biggest problem for me is that I work from my basement

My question would be: Is there a DC color that does not smell really bad?
I see you mention CCI Dwhite and Magna. I have received Magna sample, but I do not know if it came with ZSF activator or "the other" one.

Thanks

It could smell like BBQ ribs and I still wouldn't run it in the basement. It is still just as bad for you to breath in whether it smells like rose or a rotten egg.

[Denis Kolar]

Let me just in into the DC discussion. I have just received the Discharge sample kit from Nazdar and I wanted to give it a shot.

The biggest problem for me is that I work from my basement

My question would be: Is there a DC color that does not smell really bad?
I see you mention CCI Dwhite and Magna. I have received Magna sample, but I do not know if it came with ZSF activator or "the other" one.

Thanks

It could smell like BBQ ribs and I still wouldn't run it in the basement. It is still just as bad for you to breath in whether it smells like rose or a rotten egg.

So, let me put is a real new to this DC thingy.

Not only does it smell bad, but it is also a bad for your health if there is no good ventilation?

IS THAT THE CASE?

[Nick Bane]

Sounds neat, how do you make sure you get the better smelling?
NFS?

when you order your inks, just ask for the "sweet" versions.  soo worth it.

[ZooCity]

Yes, the odor is just annoying, but repeat exposure to formaldehyde is going to mess you up.  And the non formaldehyde would be just as bad without adequate ventilation.  I refused to let DC in the shop until we were fully equipped for it, highly recommend others do the same. Its safe when controlled properly but not worth it if you don't have the correct setup.  Aside from health concerns it would also run really slow in a basement shop and that's no fun either.

[Denis Kolar]

Thanks

I guess I'll save that for post basement time if it ever comes

[Sbrem]

Yes, the odor is just annoying, but repeat exposure to formaldehyde is going to mess you up.  And the non formaldehyde would be just as bad without adequate ventilation.  I refused to let DC in the shop until we were fully equipped for it, highly recommend others do the same. Its safe when controlled properly but not worth it if you don't have the correct setup.  Aside from health concerns it would also run really slow in a basement shop and that's no fun either.

Hi Zoo, are you exhaust venting over the presses? Or just the end of the dryer? Or elsewhere? We have the end of our dryers covered with exhaust hoods, but that's it. We're just getting to test the discharge (for the first time in 10 years anyway) so we haven't stunk up the joint just yet...

Steve

[ZooCity]

Hey Steve, here's what I've gathered based on the little bit of lit that is out there take it with a grain of salt, I'm no chemist and have not yet had OSHA or someone in here to test levels in the air:

My understanding is that ZFS activated discharge ink does not release any significant amount of formaldehyde into the air just as the wet ink on press.  It would be wise to maybe ventilate your activating area but while the ink smells bad on press, it's not releasing formaldehyde from what I've read.

We have a smaller shop and a significant amount of fresh air pulling through the whole thing at all times. This is just a good move all around for any shop, imho.

The big thing to mind is when the DC starts to do the actual discharging.  Our old Texair moves a crap ton of air in the middle chamber out to a 12" exhaust duct and I think this, combined with the aforementioned constant exchange of shop air are the key things to have.

Unless you have a 20' chamber gas dryer or something your shirts are going to be wrapping up the dc process towards the end of the dryer and are likely releasing some formaldehyde, spilling out the back end into the area where your catcher is working.  It's hard to tell with the regular fumes that come off a hot shirt anyway but that's my theory so we're installing an additional hood on the back end to suck fumes and also evac some heat.  I'm putting the same on the front but that's just b/c there's an IR bump up front and I want to grab the ambient heat coming out of it's vent.  The rest of the dryer is insulated and sealed.  I see no reason to vent the front portion of the dryer, i.e., the belt as it enters the chamber, provided it's true that the formaldehyde remains stable in the wet ink. 

Last off, if you are going to flash DC, like actually flash it not just zap a little moisture out, you better have a hood over the flash.  Again, good, constant, overall shop air exchange is probably the cure all and a safety net.

The only thing I like about ZFS v. non zfs or alternative chems for DC is that formaldehyde is very well studied and there are exposure levels set that you can trust for the most part.  We're doing some hvac upgrades (swamp cooler!) but I'd like to have someone come in after those are completed and test our levels when running DC on both presses, full bore to see where we are at.