Author Topic: Printing on Poly Mailers  (Read 7143 times)

Offline sonicweaponprinting

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Printing on Poly Mailers
« on: May 04, 2013, 05:43:13 PM »
Hey guys,

So when you said PolyPropylene bags, I immediately thought of Poly-Mailer bags... I actually started printing these recently, and have some good advice for them if anyone is interested.

http://www.sonic-weapon.com/portfolio-category/poly-mailers/

I print with Nazdar PA Series (PolyAll) and use a 305 mesh (230 puts down too much and you can feel the hand, like if you used thinned out acrylic, just feels heavy, the 305 feels seamless and has still maintains great opacity, even over blacks)

I use standard screen opener to keep everything clean after using these inks, as the inks tend to air dry after 15-20 minutes printed, or about 45 minutes or so in the screen. To keep the ink from drying in the screen for a large run, I use the Nazdar suggestion of adding enough ink to print for about 30-40 minutes, every 45 minutes I add a little more ink and keep printing. Always have to backflood each print, but the great thing about the PA series of ink, is that it doesnt require a catalyst (another thing I didn't want to have to deal with)

You can get these inks from McLogan supply, or Nazdar SourceOne directly, and SourceOne can also PMS match, they will even ask what color plastic you are printing over to make sure PMS matching is accurate over that color (you can also send them a sample of the substrate you're printing)

Anyways, after I am finished printing, I discard any ink in screen (as it could have mixed w/ earlier ink added and may have begun drying, you don't want to contaminate the fresh inks)

TO keep everything clean, I fill clear condiment or ketchup bottles with the PA series ink and add to screen as needed. A quart of PA series ink runs about $45 but I'd say you can get about 500-1000 prints out of a can on the 305 or higher mesh, probably more than 1000, I still am working on reducing my waste (why I switched over to the squirt condiment bottle vs filling small dixie cups ahead of time and taping them up before adding a little more when needed)

Anyways, hope this is helpful. Once printed on my vacuum table, same as I'd use for flatstock, they're air-dry to the touch, although super smelly, you need good ventilation (I work and print in my garage with 2 fans exhausting and wear a respirator the entire process)

Clean up everything with Screen Opener only, mineral spirits is no match for this ink, only screen opener, or press wash...


Offline blue moon

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Re: Printing on Poly Mailers
« Reply #1 on: May 06, 2013, 10:37:52 AM »
this was split from polypropylene bags to a new topic as it is a great resource and should not be lost at the bottom of another topic.

Thank you very much for taking the time to write this up!

pierre
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Offline Inkworks

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Re: Printing on Poly Mailers
« Reply #2 on: May 06, 2013, 08:56:54 PM »
I get asked about printing on poly bags once in a while because we're the ones who print all the weird stuff around here, but I've found it tough to sell an expensive print on such a cheap product. How much do you usually charge for a small-medium run? (100 - 500pcs.) On large runs (2500pcs+) you can usually get almost free printing from a bag maker.
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Offline ZooCity

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Re: Re: Printing on Poly Mailers
« Reply #3 on: May 07, 2013, 10:12:47 AM »
I get asked about printing on poly bags once in a while because we're the ones who print all the weird stuff around here, but I've found it tough to sell an expensive print on such a cheap product. How much do you usually charge for a small-medium run? (100 - 500pcs.) On large runs (2500pcs+) you can usually get almost free printing from a bag maker.

I was wondering the same. Seems like web printing before sealing the bags makes way more sense than screening each one.

Offline royster13

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Re: Printing on Poly Mailers
« Reply #4 on: May 07, 2013, 12:25:51 PM »
On an order I placed last week, the difference in price between 500 blank tote bags and 500 printed tote bags was 42.00.......1 colour 1 side imprint.......No set-up charge......

Offline StuJohnston

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Re: Printing on Poly Mailers
« Reply #5 on: May 07, 2013, 01:05:18 PM »
I use standard screen opener to keep everything clean after using these inks, as the inks tend to air dry after 15-20 minutes printed, or about 45 minutes or so in the screen. To keep the ink from drying in the screen for a large run, I use the Nazdar suggestion of adding enough ink to print for about 30-40 minutes, every 45 minutes I add a little more ink and keep printing. Always have to backflood each print, but the great thing about the PA series of ink, is that it doesnt require a catalyst (another thing I didn't want to have to deal with)

I feel like I should point out that the tech sheet for this particular ink says only enough ink for 5-10 minutes. If you are using squirt bottles this would make little difference in overall time to print.

I use 9700 series inks and I am thinking of trying to use it for poly mailers as well. The thing is, if you are doing this for a client's shirt line, it can be worked into the cost of their order. What are the minimums on supplier printed poly mailers? Doing this on my small clamshell, I could do a few hundo an hour and have them dry through the conveyor.

Offline ericheartsu

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Re: Printing on Poly Mailers
« Reply #6 on: May 07, 2013, 01:08:11 PM »
have you thought about trying UV ink? would the poly mailer melt in the dryer? i'd think not because it goes through pretty fast, but i'm sure it's a concern.
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Offline royster13

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Re: Printing on Poly Mailers
« Reply #7 on: May 07, 2013, 01:23:07 PM »
What are the minimums on supplier printed poly mailers? Doing this on my small clamshell, I could do a few hundo an hour and have them dry through the conveyor.

You can buy as few as 1,000 for less than 400.00......At 3,000 they are about 700.00.....

Offline StuJohnston

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Re: Printing on Poly Mailers
« Reply #8 on: May 07, 2013, 01:28:56 PM »
The tech sheet says 15-25 seconds in a forced air dryer 90-150 degrees. According to a short google, polypropylene melts at around 300 degrees. Might shrink them a bit I suppose. Probably not at 90 though.

Is the print black only? For supplier printing that is.