Getting rid of 10% and below halftones

[artguy]

Hey Everybody,
I got a little question which is probably a no brainer.
How do I get rid of halftone dots in my plate that have values less than 10%? I tried the white point eye dropper tool in levels and curves, but it seems to set the white point and there are still lower percentages around that white point. It is for a glow effect where it fades out to the shirt. If you guys could help me with this I would really appreciate it.
Thanks,
Adrian

[blue moon]

Hey Everybody,
I got a little question which is probably a no brainer.
How do I get rid of halftone dots in my plate that have values less than 10%? I tried the white point eye dropper tool in levels and curves, but it seems to set the white point and there are still lower percentages around that white point. It is for a glow effect where it fades out to the shirt. If you guys could help me with this I would really appreciate it.
Thanks,
Adrian

if it needs to be clean, you might have to mask it by hand. I would try setting your wand tolerance for 5% and clicking on 5%. I think this might give you a rather jaggy edge though.
You could also try selecting the area and using the curve tool. lock it in at 10 and move the left slider to the right until they dissapear (you might have to lock in at 12-13 and lock the rest of the curve down in few places.
Hopefully one of the experts chimes in. . .

pierre

[IntegrityShirts]

Hey Everybody,
I got a little question which is probably a no brainer.
How do I get rid of halftone dots in my plate that have values less than 10%? I tried the white point eye dropper tool in levels and curves, but it seems to set the white point and there are still lower percentages around that white point. It is for a glow effect where it fades out to the shirt. If you guys could help me with this I would really appreciate it.
Thanks,
Adrian

if it needs to be clean, you might have to mask it by hand. I would try setting your wand tolerance for 5% and clicking on 5%. I think this might give you a rather jaggy edge though.
You could also try selecting the area and using the curve tool. lock it in at 10 and move the left slider to the right until they dissapear (you might have to lock in at 12-13 and lock the rest of the curve down in few places.
Hopefully one of the experts chimes in. . .

pierre

That's what I would do too.  Magic wand, non-contiguous, set it low and select.  Zoom in and eye drop and watch the info center on either side of the mask.  Not the smoothest, but heck you're stopping at 10%, is there a way for it NOT to be an abrupt edge?

[inkman996]

Why get rid of them anyways? Just develope as many of the dots as you can. Plus I would think you should be holding less than 10% dots anyways.

[ebscreen]

Why get rid of them anyways? Just develope as many of the dots as you can. Plus I would think you should be holding less than 10% dots anyways.

For me it becomes that around the 4% mark or so you don't have a clean break as to where the dots stop developing, IE some will
some won't, leaving a ragged edge. For blends of two colors this is not a problem, especially with waterbase, but for fades to ground
it can be noticeable.

I used to think that a smaller dot was more important than holding the upper and lower tones. I now think otherwise. From 5 feet
even 25 lpi looks good.

[Sbrem]

We had a 3% dot breaking up in a fade at 50 LPI just yesterday, so we bumped it to 5% and the LPI to 60 and it cleaned up nicely...

Steve

[GaryG]

I've been interested in this too.
Tonal compression, say from 5-80% so you don't have a blotchy shadow and hit and miss 5% er's.
How does one set these values (Illy/PS) in a blend to keep clean?
Mainly on random blends, not ones that can be easily set with a gradient tool.
Thanks,

[Colin]

Are you looking at clipping out ALL the dot's at 10% and lower?

Select the channel sep you want to change

Go into curves:
-choose the pencil icon in the upper left corner of the window right under the word Channel.
-Hover over the grid until you are in the lower percentage area's/lower left
-Hover over the 0% point, click and pull right to 10%.  It's pretty precise.

You will see the low end dot's disappear.
 
Hopefully this helped!

Edited because I typed in the wrong % lol.

[AdvancedArtist]

Might work with the PS tone curve tool following the same understanding.

SimpleSeps Raster CorelDRAW Indepth Tone Curve Training

[Dottonedan]

I don't know about the Corel addition, but I didn't gather you were in Corel anyways.


From what I can see, people are confusing the "clipping" term with adjustments.


IN Curves or levels, you can adjust, no matter what method Pencil or curve) and push pixels around. Thats all this does tho. It pushes the pixels around. So in the end, you can still have a 4$ dot showing up in your art. If it has ANY type of gradation in it, it's going to start at 1% and build. However the ramp or curves look, will determine how short or long that gradation will look. You might drag your ramp way over to the shadow tones and think your burning out the 15% halftones, but your really just pushing them over to the deeper end of the shadow. Those gradations however short or long, have to start somewhere unless they are grossly exaggerated.


What you are looking for is called the Transfer function. You can put in a 10% in the 1% area. I never had much luck with that because I wanted to keep more control of the lower ned halftones.


It was under the PRINT menu or PRINT SETUP. It was in every version on up to CS4. 5 no longer carries it as they expect you to print using Adobe InDesign and is why they took out our halftones in the separation setup.


If you have a version of CS4 or older, you can import the art into (from your new program) into that older version, then apply the transfer function and (save as) a eps or tiff and choose (INCLUDE TRANSFER FUNCTION). Then when you open into your new program, it will have that function embedded. Your 1% will print out at 10%.  I would make sure to increase back to a more normal gradation smoothly as possible and quickly as possible in the ramp. This really, is a CLIP versus an adjustment.