Action's Roller Squeegee/Those of you using a tacky first screen to remove lint

[mk162]

One trick I use is if the shirt is 2 sided, print the side with less coverage first, all of the handling will make most of the lint fall off so there is less when you print the side with more coverage.

[3Deep]

I all ways pop my shirt before putting them on the pallet for printing and that only gets lint in my eyes,  I hate to waste a head to remove lint, having a 7 color and one for flash leaves me pretty tight.  My shop is like a lint and dust bunny ghetto, and I would love to move them out to low rent LOL.

Darryl

[Inkworks]

Ours is a "no-pop-shop" It raises way too much lint and makes a huge mess of everything including wreaking havoc with lint for the padprinter and graphics screenprinting. We have a big press so sticky screens get used when needed.

[kingscreen]

On larger WB/DC jobs we use what we call a pick up screen. It's an exposed and hardened screen with no image obviously. We run it on head 1 with a small amount of curable reducer as lubricant. This also makes any pin holes invisible. We lightly mist the bottom with adhesive. Print 1 stroke with light pressure. After only 500 pcs. here is the result:

[Admiral]

I'm not using one now, but when we did, we just put pallet paper on the print side of the screen and a light mist of adhesive. Threw some base or extender, or even grease in the screen. Soft squeegee, light pressure. Just enough to kiss the garment and pull those boogers off the shirt. (we just call them plugs when they are in the screen). For us, it's not worth the time putting that screen in and out. Even with 16 colors, sometimes we need that head.

I adhere the pallet paper with spray adhesive so the tape does the lint pickup.  Works beautifully up to 1k shirts.  First few uses are pretty tacky so watch out for that / use a shirt to get rid of some of the stickiness.

There is really no added setup if you are a bigger shop and use the roller squeegee, have the screen setup ahead of time, throw in (don't even need to tri-loc) put in squeegee, less than 15 secs and done, put pressure to 10-15psi for us.

I don't use one often and like deep said, I have a 7 color as well and 1 flash so the flash is 99% of the time in the second head.

[Action1]

I'm not using one now, but when we did, we just put pallet paper on the print side of the screen and a light mist of adhesive. Threw some base or extender, or even grease in the screen. Soft squeegee, light pressure. Just enough to kiss the garment and pull those boogers off the shirt. (we just call them plugs when they are in the screen). For us, it's not worth the time putting that screen in and out. Even with 16 colors, sometimes we need that head.

I adhere the pallet paper with spray adhesive so the tape does the lint pickup.  Works beautifully up to 1k shirts.  First few uses are pretty tacky so watch out for that / use a shirt to get rid of some of the stickiness.

There is really no added setup if you are a bigger shop and use the roller squeegee, have the screen setup ahead of time, throw in (don't even need to tri-loc) put in squeegee, less than 15 secs and done, put pressure to 10-15psi for us.

I don't use one often and like deep said, I have a 7 color as well and 1 flash so the flash is 99% of the time in the second head.

This is very interesting to hear that you have used the pallet paper for this. Earlier today we began brainstorming a new product which uses a roll of pallet paper mounted onto a frame for use as a de-linting tool. This will allow you to simply pull the paper forward and tear off the lint covered paper.
As always - we sincerely appreciate any input on this project from our favorite group of veterans - TSB.

I will post pictures when available but for now - consider us - on the job!

[DannyGruninger]

I will say we use our roller squeegee's for a lint pickup screen all the time. We just ran an order of over 30,000 prints and the roller squeegee worked great for picking up lint. We keep the teflon sheet on the print side of the screen and use a light mist of albatross waterbase glue. Every 1,000 shirts we do a quick wipe/spray which adds about 20 seconds to every 1000 shirts. We only had to stop once or twice to get lint balls out of the screens that the pickup screen missed. Otherwise we probably would have been stopping every 10 minutes or so. I'm not here to endorse action by anymeans(I pay full retail for everything I buy from them) but the roller squeegee really does benefit "my" shop. Our quality is really good without it but there's certain types of shirts that we print almost daily which certainly come out better using the roller. We've put over 100,000 prints on one of our rollers and it's still in perfect condition so the quality has been good for us. Anyways, to answer the question it works really good for us as a lint pickup and even better for hoodies/shirts that have tons of loose fibers.


Danny

[Action1]

I will say we use our roller squeegee's for a lint pickup screen all the time. We just ran an order of over 30,000 prints and the roller squeegee worked great for picking up lint. We keep the teflon sheet on the print side of the screen and use a light mist of albatross waterbase glue. Every 1,000 shirts we do a quick wipe/spray which adds about 20 seconds to every 1000 shirts. We only had to stop once or twice to get lint balls out of the screens that the pickup screen missed. Otherwise we probably would have been stopping every 10 minutes or so. I'm not here to endorse action by anymeans(I pay full retail for everything I buy from them) but the roller squeegee really does benefit "my" shop. Our quality is really good without it but there's certain types of shirts that we print almost daily which certainly come out better using the roller. We've put over 100,000 prints on one of our rollers and it's still in perfect condition so the quality has been good for us. Anyways, to answer the question it works really good for us as a lint pickup and even better for hoodies/shirts that have tons of loose fibers.

Danny

 Wow! this is really great to hear Danny. Thanks for taking the time to provide your experienced viewpoint sir. Perhaps we should redirect our attention to using your setup as a delinting station. After-all - why reinvent when we have something that will work so well for two different applications.
Danny - Your testimonial means a great deal and i sincerely thank you sir!

[ericheartsu]

total dumb question, but does the teflon go on the inside or outside of the screen?

[Action1]

total dumb question, but does the teflon go on the inside or outside of the screen?

Outside

[Action1]

total dumb question, but does the teflon go on the inside or outside of the screen?

Eric - BTW thank you very much for the great job Night Owls did on our new shirts. Our staff wears them everyday here.  It's real morale booster to our team and an enhancement to our company image.
If your considering a Roller squeegee - they come with a 100% satisfaction gaurentee.

[TCT]

I adhere the pallet paper with spray adhesive so the tape does the lint pickup.  Works beautifully up to 1k shirts.  First few uses are pretty tacky so watch out for that / use a shirt to get rid of some of the stickiness.

We do this as well and has always worked nice.

[ScreenPrinter123]

I will say we use our roller squeegee's for a lint pickup screen all the time. We just ran an order of over 30,000 prints and the roller squeegee worked great for picking up lint. We keep the teflon sheet on the print side of the screen and use a light mist of albatross waterbase glue. Every 1,000 shirts we do a quick wipe/spray which adds about 20 seconds to every 1000 shirts. We only had to stop once or twice to get lint balls out of the screens that the pickup screen missed. Otherwise we probably would have been stopping every 10 minutes or so. I'm not here to endorse action by anymeans(I pay full retail for everything I buy from them) but the roller squeegee really does benefit "my" shop. Our quality is really good without it but there's certain types of shirts that we print almost daily which certainly come out better using the roller. We've put over 100,000 prints on one of our rollers and it's still in perfect condition so the quality has been good for us. Anyways, to answer the question it works really good for us as a lint pickup and even better for hoodies/shirts that have tons of loose fibers.


Danny

Well this certainly puts my mind at ease -- I was really worried about how many times I was going to stop on my forthcoming 30,000 piece job!  :-).

Seriously though -- thanks for letting me know.  Do you have a repeatable ratio of water/glue that is done by weight or do you just estimate all the time?  Thanks!

[ScreenPrinter123]

Reporting Back:
Roller Squeegee came in -- used it today on white ink plastisol that was showing on a purple shirt (lots of open area) and having a top color.  I will never ever ever ever ever ever ever print white plastisol ink without this again - it's almost comparable to printing on top of clear packaging tape for those of you who use that method when registering screens.  While it may be cost prohibitive for some, you'll kick yourself after you've tried it for not doing it sooner.  I'd recommend using it whether it's white ink on dark garment or white underbase for plastisol -- even makes the print feel lighter aside from smoother and you'll be able to get more one hit whites than you would without it (at least we will). 

Only question -- those of you who use a teflon sheet, what kind've glue do you use to stick the sheet to the print side of the screen?  I just used some of the yellow roller tape for the jobs today, but it sags in the middle and doesn't remain flush on the mesh.  So, while I initially planned on using the same 23x31 frame screen for lint pick up and white smoothing (I planned on just removing the teflon sheet when using it for picking up lint), it looks like I may just have to permanently adhere the teflon sheet to the screen so it doesn't sag during production and make a separate screen for the lint picker-upper.  Any suggestions on glue that would be permanent?  I coated the mesh 2/2 with WR25, exposed it for 20+ minutes and used a boat load of Permx, so this screen should last until my 2 year old son retires, but I don't know if some glue would be better to use than others?  I have some gorilla glue -- yes/no?  Anyone from Action have any suggestions? Erik?

[ScreenPrinter123]

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