Epic (failure)

[mk162]

So it turns out that Epic needs to get hotter than Genesis to fully cure.  I've been doing jackets for the past 3 months and the last batch we did the Epic ink is flaking off.  It sort of tipped me off when the Genesis ink right next to it is fine and we've only had 1 order come back...the only order we've used ANY epic on.  I was told that we wouldn't notice a difference between Epic and Genesis as far as printability goes, but it might have been nice to mention that they need a hotter cure temp.

Normally this isn't an issue since I take shirts over what is recommended anyway, but with jackets I am VERY concerned about melting them.

[ZooCity]

Nylon jackets?  Which Epic ink specifically?

[JBLUE]

Epic does not need to be hotter it needs a longer dwell time. Making it hotter will just blister it. Ran into this with Quick White when we first started using it.

[mk162]

well, in talking with ink reps, they are recommending a hotter cure temp on the epic series.

Epic Navy, on poly jackets.  GNS Columbia blue, Dallas Scarlet, Deacon Blue, burgundy, and super light gold all stuck fine...those are all still genesis, the only change other than ink color is GNS to Epic.

[ZooCity]

Run the Performance series on Nylon (if you have PCs) or the Top Score if you just use spots.  I think Top Score is just Performance in spot colors (down to quarts) which was not available previously.  It all cures at about 290˚F.
***
So after rearranging to fit the Gauntlet in here we are running all the jobs through the big dryer (10' of heat/forced hot air) instead of just firing it up for big runs and wb/dc.  What a difference.  The ink is achieving full cure at a lower max temp and is softer, more pliable, just better finished print all around. 

I am now a firm believer that a longer chamber time is beneficial to plastisols and no, it's not all about max temp and simply hitting it.  After seeing the difference, I don't care what anyone says about better wavelengths on modern IR panels, etc -  I'd have to say it's about saturating the entire film with heat.  Ergo, longer dwell time + forced air is the easiest way to achieve that. But this is another story...
***
That sucks you had to recall some washouts.  I fear this and make everyone check the backend temp all the time with the gun.

[mk162]

i ordered a thermo-probe to replace the broken one...i need to remap the dryer.

The only ink i used that was different was the bear's navy.  everything was gns, except that.

all the jackets got 2 colors too, no other jacket had 1 single color wash off and there are hundreds of other jackets out there, there were 15 of these, and all are showing signs of ink coming off.

[ZooCity]

Yeah, I think WFX needs to be more upfront about how different it is to print with phthalate-free.  I wouldn't know but, from the things I see posted on the internet and comments from other printers, it sounds like there is a serious difference, both good and bad.

Remember the other ink brands are doing "non-phthalate" and/or "phthalate compliant", they aren't actually phthalate free, i.e, their ink does contain phthalates, just not the banned ones, so their conversion is likely not as extreme as what's happening with WFX. 

[JBLUE]

I found out the hard way on a 17k run with Quick White. Had to run a 3rd of them back through. Believe it or not the Epic puts off a certain smell at full cure. LOL Wilflex and being up front have not gone together since Epic has been out.

[mk162]

I will slow it down a bit and see what happens, for now I have to fix about 15 jackets.

I haven't noticed it on cotton yet since I do run those slower than what is needed.  I just don't want shirts coming back.

[ZooCity]

I imagine they don't want to scare everyone away but a little tech sheet on making the switch might help a lot of people.

And yeah, I used to gauge cure by taking a whiff of the shirt under the flash ( I cured on a side table, printed on a 6/1 rototex). 

[tonypep]

We always use an LCA for substrates like these (low cure additive) and turn the dryer temp down by 100 degrees. Works perfect on all whites we use.