screen printing > Ink and Chemicals

Another 100% Poly question

(1/1)

ZooCity:
Happy Friday everyone!  (or at least to those of us who have an actual weekend to look forward to...)

I have some 100% Poly bike jerseys to print up over the weekend.  Red, of course.  (just couldn't convince them to go dye sub on this one) 2-3 colors in all locations.   Going to underbase with Epic Performance Grey Underbase and while I was planning on using Performance top colors that I mixed up I am unfortunately without those inks and there ain't a damn thing I can do about it.  And predictably, the job's due before 10am Monday morn.  Yee haw. 

I do have some Performance White on hand and my regular QCM QMX system.  Can I get away with the poly ink underbase and slap on top colors of either regular plastisol or combinations of the perf white and QMX pigments?   I've mixed up a yellow and printed it on texas orange nylon jerseys by using athletic white and adding in some yellow base and no bleed issues there but I'd like a second opinion on this. 

I know the phthalate-free thing helps with the bleed but I'm a little nervous on this one.  Would rather not overnight 4 quarts of athletic ink for saturday, that would wipe out the margin completely on the order, but I'll do it if I have to.

Colin:
Chris,

You should not have any problems with intercoat adhesion even though the Performance inks will cure around 290-ish.  Just be carefull with your flash times.

My only concern comes with bleed in general.  The Performance white has the low cure temp but the QCM inks still cure at 320. Depending on the quality of the garment, the difference in temp may cause the dyes of the garment to come through.  If you are confident that the Wilflex inks will stop the dyes at a 320 cure then go for it.

Good luck with your distributor search!  I still don't know of any Distributor with more than one location that doesn't occasionally (sometimes more) drop the ball on inventory.

Chadwick:
Not sure of all the specific inks you mentioned, but for what it's worth;
I base with wilflex poly ( white, but whatever, p/f/p/f ) on jerseys all the time and print wilflex classic ( basically regular ink, more opaque )
over top.
Only rare occasions of bleed, but that wasn't the ink's fault anyways  :-\
I think ( occasionally ) any bleed resistant ink, as long as it's not applied super thin ( like on red ) should do the trick as a base.

.02
Best of luck.

squeegee:
I would suggest you keep the cure temp as close to 320 as possible and really watch your flash intensity, as your pallets get hot, consider backing off time at least and intensity if you can.  Don't pack or stack the garments while hot, let them cool. 

ZooCity:
Thanks everyone these were the votes of confidence I needed, not like I have a choice at this point anyway, but I figured I could get away with the reg. top inks and I'm just going to put down enough perf ub gray to stop the migration and go for it. 

Navigation

[0] Message Index