Well, we have been exposing the WR25 for about 8 minutes (1/1 round edge) (1000 watt - nuarc 40-1KS metal halide); letting dry; post expose outside or under the nuarc a second time; add the hardener; let dry; put in drying cabinet for 1 hr; then tape up (only on ink side now) and off we go -- however, it was still breaking down a couple hundred into the run with CCI's less-strong hardener. I'm guessing we were doing something wrong.
At any rate, thanks for your posts -- and I do have a great update. If I were CCI, I would ditch the permx remover and buy stock in "The Green Zone 669" dehazer from WM Plastics (which may be relabeled too for them). We got a sample of it like 3 years ago and it's just been sitting on top of the washout booth. So as CCI's permx remover wasn't working well, nor the dip tank after, I started throwing anything we had on top of the washout book on the screen to help remove the emulsion. Put that 669 dehazer on there, let it sit for 5 minutes and BAM! That worked awesome. Even our dehazer from our local supplier didn't work. So, if anyone is using the strongest hardener by CCI, I'd highly recommend getting a sample of this stuff and trying it out.
So I have a run of 1,300 front and backs in the next week on white shirts, so it'd be wb (so not as aggressive as dc). How would you prep your screens for a 1,300-2,000 piece run? Same as above or would you go with a stronger hardener? Add 2nd coat of the medium weight hardener? etc.?
