What have you printed lately?

[Clark]

I see lot of you print thru 305's and I have tried printing thru them on manual and auto and not got good results.  I going to say one fact is my exposure unit, tubes instead of point light and I don't get a great screen to work with.  Anyone got any screen coating and and bruning tips for me on that high of a mesh ct.   Oh and that glove looks great!!!

Darryl

Smilin jack squeegee makes all the difference for me....that and reducing the ink.  I had/have trouble pushing through 305 with a standard 70 duro blade, but the smilin jack cures all that.

[blue moon]

I see lot of you print thru 305's and I have tried printing thru them on manual and auto and not got good results.  I going to say one fact is my exposure unit, tubes instead of point light and I don't get a great screen to work with.  Anyone got any screen coating and and bruning tips for me on that high of a mesh ct.   Oh and that glove looks great!!!

Darryl

Darryl,

305's work if everything else is set up right. When I tried printing through them for the first time, I was told by the guy teaching me that it will never work and that I have to reburn all the the screens on the 230's. I told him that if other ppl can do it so can I.

It just takes practice. When you are starting it is hard to overcome some of the issues that might come up so it would be helpful ot have a really good setup. Get few brand new screens, new blades, make sure the press is level and the heads are parallel with the plattens. Reduce your offcontact and pressure. While you will probably want harder blades later to help keep the definition, start with something really soft like a 60. This should get the ink through. On my first three or four jobs, I had to go into the artwork and open up all the halftones by 30% to make everything work, but since dialing the exposure times and press setting it is no longer necessary.

I should also add that when printing on light garments we use 305's only if it is a simulated process print and we are blending colors. Since there is build up of different inks, it looks good. When printing spots on light colors, 305's do not leave thick enough deposit to get really good coverage.  Clark might want to chime in here and let us know if he is getting better coverage than I am.

pierre

[3Deep]

Thanks guys I,m thinking my major problem is the screens, but will try what you guys are talking about in the future...I still use 110's to print white as I only have to hit it once and 137 for most of my spot jobs even though I have a bunch of 230 and 150, around.

Darryl

[Clark]

For standard spot color printing on lights we will normally run a 205N...like Pierre the only time I mess with a 300+ screen is when running sim on light or darks.  They just arent worth the trouble.  Mixing the inks till they are very smooth, then reducing as needed and finding a blade that works for you is about all you can do.  WE would have normally run the black screen on a 300, but the way it was sepped was leading to too much ink going down, so we upped to a 330 to help lay down less ink. 

[JBLUE]

What would you do if they didn't pay?

I know what I'd do...not a damn thing!  Those are some hard guys.

Another fine print by they way.  How did the 272N do for the underbase?  Were you able to clear the stencil with one stroke?

Thats a good question. How much did you cut the Quick White?

Added 12-15% soft hand reducer to the quick.  That's pretty much our standard sim underbase.

I forgot to ask. Is it soft hand clear or curable reducer? Thanks

[Clark]

Soft Hand Clear is what we use to reduce.

Here is another one from today...same thing.  Not my art, not my seps, just printing what is provided.





White 230/48, Orange 305N, Red 305N, Yellow 305N, Blue 305N, Black 305N

[Dottonedan]

This was printed by tonypep. Shows the Discharge look before going into the oven.  Good example of that.  Many people wonder what a discharge print looks like when you lay down all the colors but it's but been fired yet. This is it.

[tonypep]

Thanks for putting that up Dan. BTW both shirts are black. The uncured shirt reacted to the camera flash. If you look carefully at both shirts you may wonder how the heck do you register that? Well we could have tried to line up to the gray type but that could unweildy and more time consuming. So a composite underbase was made and printed in black plastisol and flashed. Lined it up with no tweaks and ran it (the "registration screen" was of course removed)  Just shipped today 1,000 pcs zero misprints. When you do this right I swear its less hassle than a plastisol with flashing. Runs faster as well.

[Nation03]

Thanks for putting that up Dan. BTW both shirts are black. The uncured shirt reacted to the camera flash. If you look carefully at both shirts you may wonder how the heck do you register that? Well we could have tried to line up to the gray type but that could unweildy and more time consuming. So a composite underbase was made and printed in black plastisol and flashed. Lined it up with no tweaks and ran it (the "registration screen" was of course removed)  Just shipped today 1,000 pcs zero misprints. When you do this right I swear its less hassle than a plastisol with flashing. Runs faster as well.

Thank you for sharing that info on lining it up. I always was curious how people went about lining up the discharge prints since you can hardly see them. do you do this trick for most discharge jobs?

[tonypep]

Depends......This print was tricky as there was no outline or base film/screen. Its not a bad idea for those who are squeamish about the ink drying in the screen and there are several ways to do this. Also all reg marks are blocked out and post exposed to prevent leaks. A pre-reg system such as a Tri-loc IS another way.

[JBLUE]

Here is one we ran for a reorder. 6 color sim job. The photo makes it kind of grainy looking but the gradients and shadowing are really smooth. It was printed as follows.

Underbase- 230
Flash
White- 230
Flash
green- 230
grey- 230
Transparent black- 230
Black- 230

[ebscreen]

Nice print Inkwerks. Love that they put it on a red. Also interesting that your printed both whites first and then colors
on top. I've done that a few times, usually with good results.



Here's a pic I took today. Shop shirts. Simple and easy, all waterbased/discharge on muted colors. The military green is
my fave...

[JBLUE]

Thanks. We did the two whites first to help the trans black shading. The two whites have different percentages of dots working together to get different shading under the trans black. Got any XXl? I'll buy and cover shipping Dig the robot!!!!!!

[mk162]

No crap, that robot is sweet.  I think it takes people back to their childhood and give you a an instant sense of fondness.

I'll take a large, but I won't wear it because I don't want to advertise for you. 

[Sbrem]

I think I had that robot, 2 d-cells, it walked, the arms swung, and the nose and eyes lit up. Very high tech... and it weighed enough to kill someone with.

Steve