What have you printed lately?

[screenxpress]

With only flashing the base mind ya.

I watched the video.  Very impressive.  Where was the flash?

[Dottonedan]

Good catch. I didn?t see that.

Apparently you can. . I don?t know if during production, he did or didn?t.

He was going to flash two times. 2nd flash being on the 3rd clr but I suggested not to flash the colors but only the base. I cut back on gain knowing it was being done on a manual. I think he probably ended up up flashing the base after this vid for production. 

I think the inks would build up too much as you got into longer runs.

you can NOT flash at all, but only for a short time (small runs).  The thing is, pick up can be good on the base since people often ?over do it? on the base. They think of white as needing to show as white...when all the base is intended to do, is support the top Colors. It does not need to be bright white for sim process. Spot Colors, yes. Sim, not so much.

It actually should look grey.

[screenxpress]

Dan,

The only panel that is a bit confusing to me is the Red.  I can see touches of Red in top breast feathers, but a lot of Red all the way down which is overlayed with Blue.  Unless it's a secret, is there something about the technique that has a lot more Red than I would expect for a sim print?

Obviously it works, just that I'm a bit puzzled.

[Dottonedan]

Dan,

The only panel that is a bit confusing to me is the Red.  I can see touches of Red in top breast feathers, but a lot of Red all the way down which is overlaid with Blue.  Unless it's a secret, is there something about the technique that has a lot more Red than I would expect for a sim print?

Obviously it works, just that I'm a bit puzzled.

Yes, In areas that are to be Grey or if I want to go from a solid black to a bright white with grey in the middle tones, I make those up using a smidgen of Y, R and B Then some black and then some top white  or top white and then some black.  Like "simulated" process.   Check the color content in the chrome/silver looking tear parts of the shirt. (The original art has that looking like silverish grey chrome.  Most people I guess would stick with Base white black and top white in there, but to me, that area has a tint of color. You pull those from the Y, R and B.  It makes for a more rich color of grey.

I've said for years, I'd rather mix up 3-5 colors in small percentages to get good greys and shadows. To add in a tad more for shades that lean to the blue side. More yellow and less red for shades of grey that lean more towards the greenish grey side. It's not magic. From an young artist standpoint who's finances were always low, and had to mix colors from a limited amount of paint, I got familiar with that process before I even started into sim process for tee shirts. For apparel, it just works much better in the print.

Notice the dark greenish blue/grey claws.   Some base white...+ Mostly Yellow and blue (a smidgen of red in deeper shadow areas)....under black and top white. Comes out much different than other areas.

I've also filled in some shadow areas with color. I like rich deep shadows filled with dark "color" and not just black.  Sometimes, I make a selection of a specific area of the black, copy that and add to in other colors for richer shadow colors. especially blues.  Notice how much blue actually creeps up under the black shadow area in the flag.
A lot of this color separation and "theory" is much like traditional painting and color theory.  I've often felt like THE best way to reproduce a well known painting like the Mona Lisa, is to separate it into many layers. Printing thin layers of ink...even in solid areas where you are using solid color, but that colors is based back so much that it's like printing with dye inks rather than opaque inks. Those dye inks would be rich in concentrated pigments and less in carriers.

[screenxpress]

Very interesting.   

Shows the differences between the manual seps vs. the use of automation seps.  I know in most cases, the automation seps "get the job done", but the work you do shows real artistry working with colors.

Thanks for the explanation.

[SERJ]

7 colours, water based, Discharg + CMYK+ Panton, 90 Lpi,120 (cm) Mesh

[Sbrem]

7 colours, water based, Discharg + CMYK+ Panton, 90 Lpi,120 (cm) Mesh

Just fantastic, as always. I'm glad we don't have to compete with that.

Steve

[1964GN]

Here is one we printed today. 7 colors, sim process on poly, 65lpi, 305's.

[1964GN]

Turned out pretty good considering I started with a 72dpi .png

[3Deep]

Great detail on the fish, what shirt did you all print that on?  very nice!!

[Dottonedan]

NICE PRINT!   Good tone control.


Was that solid red area in the same red screen with there fish?  That would be even better control like PERFECT!  Good adjsutments.


I was just telling someone the other day that using 72ppi is not unheard of.  We don't want to tell the customer that we can do that, (or they will never try to get us good art) but often times we can, depending on art and size.

[1964GN]

Yeah, just one red and one black screen. Those 2 seem to bite us in the ass the most but this one turned out nice all things considered. The customer was drooling over the press proof They were on A4's with a few cotton tees and terry tanks for good measure.

[Sbrem]

Exceptional, really, on poly yet!

Steve

[ffokazak]

Great print!

[LoneWolf2]

Not a good pic, but here's some 7-color samples (and 1 color) we ran yesterday for a customer needing them the next day for an apparel show.