Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work. - Thomas Edison
Quote from: JBLUE on February 14, 2013, 06:34:24 PM the least amount of dot gain when doing half tones if you have not linearized your printer or cant linearize your printer. This can't be stressed enough. Stock Epson printers, heck any brand tend to have heavy gain in the midtone range and fill solid above 75% as their main use was not intended for what we as printers need, accurate and perfectly produced halftones to burn a screen vs art on the wall. Anyone who is even thinking of printing 1/2 tones really needs to calibrate and Linearize their RIP settings. Accurip and Wasatch users, maybe other rips, allow you to enter tonal readings to produce accurate halftones from YOUR printer. My old Epson R1800 was producing and exposing 3% tones on a 272 mesh. You need a densitometer, go buy one or ask around to borrow as some have one.
the least amount of dot gain when doing half tones if you have not linearized your printer or cant linearize your printer.
Quote from: jsheridan on February 16, 2013, 12:40:15 PMQuote from: JBLUE on February 14, 2013, 06:34:24 PM the least amount of dot gain when doing half tones if you have not linearized your printer or cant linearize your printer. This can't be stressed enough. Stock Epson printers, heck any brand tend to have heavy gain in the midtone range and fill solid above 75% as their main use was not intended for what we as printers need, accurate and perfectly produced halftones to burn a screen vs art on the wall. Anyone who is even thinking of printing 1/2 tones really needs to calibrate and Linearize their RIP settings. Accurip and Wasatch users, maybe other rips, allow you to enter tonal readings to produce accurate halftones from YOUR printer. My old Epson R1800 was producing and exposing 3% tones on a 272 mesh. You need a densitometer, go buy one or ask around to borrow as some have one. color me stupid but -how do you go about this? I have accurip and 4800, I'm not really too sure where to start. Do you basically run off films with different percentages, give them a print and compare?
I switched back to non-waterproof some time back.Silkjet stuff.Takes longer for ink to fully cure, but plan accordingly.( if you're in a bind you can use them right away, but it will wreck the positive in the process )The waterproof was skidding in the feeder after time due to the coating transferring to the wheels ( I assume )The waterproof's coating can get damaged when taping a positive down to a platten, and somehow just isn't durable.That's what my experience was with it. Used 2 packages, so..200 sheets?Don't really have any complaints about the non-wp. Silkjet stuff again.I use stock 3000 ink.Films printed years ago, and re-used regularly seem to stand up just fine.I don't use a RIP per se, but there is a tone-curve adjustment in SimRip,and I've tweaked the driver some.
We primarily use our Epson r1800 for film positives and stock Epson oem ink. The film brad sells(wp) works super good. I know there are several other guys on the board here that use his same product with great results. Whatever your choice of film please consider brad as your supplier. He is a small business and is always grateful for our orders. As john said its not always about price. I'm a unpaid spokesperson. Lol
Quote from: RStefanick on February 16, 2013, 01:15:06 PMWe primarily use our Epson r1800 for film positives and stock Epson oem ink. The film brad sells(wp) works super good. I know there are several other guys on the board here that use his same product with great results. Whatever your choice of film please consider brad as your supplier. He is a small business and is always grateful for our orders. As john said its not always about price. I'm a unpaid spokesperson. Lolhi RStefanick, was wondering is the setup on the Epson r1800 easy and good? have an opening to probably get a used one at about 120bux. wondering if its a worthy investment as i'm just starting out.
You have to adjust your droplet weight.
FastRip 9.0 came with my printer, is there any way to size the droplets within that program? I have looked but have had little luck. Thanks