Calibrating a Chameleon??

[Mark @ Hurricane Printing]

I have emailed M&R this question but I figured I'd post it up in here also:

When following the steps to calibrate my press (Chameleon 8/8 w/ air clamps), one of the first things mentioned (page 13, step 5 of the manual) It states to place a level on the pallet arm and make sure the bubble in the level is in the same position at each opposite leg, meaning if the bubble is touching the right line of the level while the arm is over one leg, it should also be touching the right line of level on the opposite leg. Well when I check this on my press the bubble is touching the right line over one leg but when i spin the arm over the leg opposite (180 degrees from the original position) of it its touching the left line of the level. This being the case I will never be able to make the bubble match by adjusting the leveling pads. If I turn the pad to make the bubble touch the right line, then the position where it is touching the right line will then go even more to the right, even past the right line of the level. I tried to make the adjustments in the pallet arms themselves and that gets me no where.

So what I am doing is making sure EVERY pallet is level and the same elevation at my printing position. I am not concerning myself what the pallet arm "level-ness" is in any position. I am just focusing on making all pallets level (and same elevation) in my printing spot. Will this be o.k. to do?

[Baron265]

The level should be running in the same direction as the pallet arm. So you will have an inside line and an outside line for the bubble.

[Mark @ Hurricane Printing]

aaahhh...im thinking wrong about "bubble position"..I need to think "position of bubble" and not "plumb-ness of bubble". But that means each arm is riding out of plumb (not dead level), which is o.k. according to the manual> each arm is touching the outside line when the arm is indexed over each of the 2 legs in question. You are saying this the correct reading I should have?

I was thinking the bubble had to be in the same exact position over each leg. And I interpretated position as: If the bubble is touching the right line over one leg, then the leg oppoiste of it should be touching the right line. To me that is "the bubble in the same position"........but what you are saying, if I am correct, is that I should not be thinking "right line or left line"...I need to look at the "position" of the bubble, i.e. if the bubble is touching the "outside line" of level over one leg, then the bubble should be touching the "outside line" over the opposing leg.

right?

[Baron265]

Correcto mundo

[Mark @ Hurricane Printing]

Correcto mundo

thanks!

[nobrainsd]

May I ask why you are working so hard to hit a truly level plane using all of  the print arms? Of course you would want to be close so the press is relatively level. But what is the point in trying to get the press absolutely level to the floor? Some small deviation shouldn't be an issue. The press isn't going to rotate around by itself due to a small error. The bearing on the press isn't going to wear unevenly due to some small variation either. Those things are made to deal with a lot more stress than that!

Calibration to me centers on the relationship between the screen and the platen at all positions. I have "calibrated" many manual presses and re pinned the arms on my current workhorse 8/8 to get the parallel planes between screen and platen I wanted. Yeah, My press is level, but I sure didn't go to a lot of effort on it. So I am genuinely curious about the need to "calibrate" by level across the arms. I guess it would help eliminate errors that could be caused by using the level on one section of the frame that might not truly reflect the plane of the arms rotation. But is this precise level to the world thing really an issue?

Mark says he tried to adjust the pallet arms. That just doesn't sound right. You should never adjust pallet arms to level/gravity. It's the relationship of the arm/platen to the screen that matters.  Playing with the arm based on a level doesn't account for the screen plane hitting the platen plane.

[Evo]

You are talking about the initial setup where you place the press on the floor where you want it, and then set the center shaft plumb by putting a level on one pallet arm and checking each corner.

You only need to do this with one pallet arm. Doing this with multiple pallet arms is redundant.

Adjust the four foot pads till the bubble is at the same place when you rotate the arm to each corner of the press. If the bubble is say, touching the outside line, make sure it touches the outside line at each corner.

A small torpedo level, the kind with the magnet down one side, is perfect for this.

Note: this only takes a couple minutes, it's done once and that's it. It's more critical if you have the 14 color setup, as there is a ton of weight spinning there. On the 8 color it's not so critical, just get it close.


The real challenge is making all the pallets parallel to the press. Whole other ball of wax.

[Evo]

I need to look at the "position" of the bubble, i.e. if the bubble is touching the "outside line" of level over one leg, then the bubble should be touching the "outside line" over the opposing leg.

right?

Uhh...yeah!

[Prosperi-Tees]

The real challenge is making all the pallets parallel to the press. Whole other ball of wax.

Now what is the best way to accomplish this on a manual?

[jsheridan]

The real challenge is making all the pallets parallel to the press. Whole other ball of wax.

More like a ball of yarn tied in knots wrapped in rubber bands and then dipped in wax....

I'm about to tackle this on the 8/8 I spin everyday and thinking how the heck.. gotta call Dan on this one.

[Evo]

The real challenge is making all the pallets parallel to the press. Whole other ball of wax.

Now what is the best way to accomplish this on a manual?

Hoo boy...


Ok the Chameleon has the same 3 point pallet leveling set up as the M&R autos. Identical in every way. Hold that thought...


So...assuming everything is fubar and it's an older press and you can't get anything to work right, dialing in a Chameleon goes as follows:

1) Double check off contact landing height on every print arm
2) Level off the side clamp bar on head #1
3) Level (make parallel) pallet #1
4) Match that pallet level on remaining pallets
5) Level off the rest of the side clamp bars per step #2


1) Off contact calibration: (note: this is not the job to job, color to color off contact adjustment, this is the factory, "zeroed out" adjustment for the whole press, and should not need to be messed with unless something is noticeably wrong)

The off contact design on the Chameleon is very similar to other manual presses like the Hopkins and Workhorse, etc. There is an adjuster knob that goes through the center of the head, and a landing foot underneath that rests on an adjustable bolt/locknut. (on the Chameleon, this bolt has a nylon pad on top, and is called the "leveling pad buckeye")

Simple check: tape the adjuster knob on head #1 so it cannot move. (or any head, just mark one as a "setup and check" head and always use that one)
With the pallets off the arms, use a caliper to measure the distance between the top of the pallet arm and the underside of the lowered head. Use only the one master head, and rotate to each pallet arm. With the adjuster knob taped in place, every measurement should be the same or very close. This is your calibrated print-to-print off contact setting so this needs to be as dead on as you can get it. If any pallet arms are high or low, make them all match to one master arm (I always used pallet arm #1) To adjust, loosen the locknut on the buckeye bolt and adjust the bolt till the desired height is reached, and lock it down again. This is a touchy adjustment so measure and re-measure.

Now, once all the buckeye bolts are adjusted to the same height, any changes you make on the fly with the adjuster knob above will mean the head will land on each pallet arm with the exact same off contact height.

NOW, IF THE BUCKEYES WERE OUT OF WHACK, THAT KINDA TOOK FOREVER CORRECTING IT, RIGHT? SO IF ANYONE IN THE SHOP freaks WITH THAT ADJUSTMENT HERE ON OUT, FIRE THEM.

Onward...

2) Loosen the cross bar on head #1 that holds the side clamps. You'll need a hex wrench, (sorry...forget the size) and a 9/16" box wrench. "Level" off the cross bar and tighten. You should have it where it's in the middle of it's adjustment range from side to side, so each of the side clamps is at approx the same height. If you are positive one pallet is already totally level, then level off the side clamps to that one and lock it down.

3) Now head #1 is ready to be used to level off all the pallets. Use this head for each pallet. I use a small screen no longer than say 18-20" so I can have the back and front bar across the pallet. Find an old screen frame that is flat as possible, (hint: lay on glass or marble to check) one that you can remove the mesh - this makes it easy. Clamp it in the head and have the front/back bars across the pallet. Raise/lower the off contact knob till it's about the middle of the adjustable range. Tape it in place so it won't move. Raise/lower the off contact angle adjustment knob to approximately level off the head front to back. Tape it also in place so it won't move.

Using the 3-point pallet leveling bolts underneath, level the pallet till the front/back/side-to-side corners match the screen frame. I use a business or key card and slide it under each corner till it just touches, then I lock the pallet in place. Start with side-to-side, (roll) then raise/lower the front (pitch) till leveled. Each adjustment bolt is touchy, so check and re-check, and raise/lower the head in place while you do. Adjust and re-adjust the pallet level till each time the head is lowered the frame lands with the exactly height, on every corner, every time. Lock the pallet adjustment down tight.

4) Now...repeat this for all pallets. Beer and/or coffee is suggested at this point, as is a comfortable low stool or chair.

5) Adjust the side clamp leveling on the rest of the heads to match head #1 that you set up in step 2). Use that screen frame and make sure each head's side clamps are leveled off to your beautifully leveled and matching pallets.

6) Profit

[Evo]

Ok I just re-read my post and some of that might not make a lick of sense. Questions? I'm sure.