Another Emulsion? CCI WR-14

[dirkdiggler]

All the great qualities of WR25 but with twice as fast exposure time and without the doodoo brown color.  Its green.
Got samples today and will be testing this week, but I here its badass.

[alan802]

Do tell more once you've tested it.  I'm very interested in this.

[ScreenPrinter123]

Yes please keep us posted. Burned 10 screens on Friday with the wr25 and it was 400%+ slower than chromablue. Blah.

[tonypep]

I knew this was coming up and glad to see it's out. CCI is really stepping up their game.

[dirkdiggler]

ok, exposed some screens today and printed one job.  First, its does expose faster than wr25.  About a minute faster on my 3140.  Color is blueish green, which is far better than WR25's dookie brown.  I had zero problems on press without a hardener, but it was a short run.  will tell more when I learn more.

[Screened Gear]

I used some about 4 months ago. It did fine. Detail was good. Only issue was it exposed in about 50 seconds. With my set up aquasol hv exposes in 18 seconds. My screen cleaning girl did say it was harder to reclaim.

[tonypep]

CCI is sending a gal to test shipping from Cali shd be here by Friday

[Homer]

Zombie thread....

anyone using this? I am being forced out of CCI HXT and exploring my options....

Looking at CCI only due to availability - LXP the led specific stuff, wr14, wr25.

[LuckyFlyinROUSH]

We have tried just about everything. We have stuck with WR14 for anything High detail. Its awesome. We have a starlight...it exposes in about 25-30 secs. Rinses out all dots super easy. Then we post expose the living crap out of it otherwise it breaks down. So back on the starlight for another 50 seconds. Two at a time rotating them, then in front of a t5 high bay light.

No more issues with breaking down. On reclaim we spray ink degradent, power wash, let sit for a while to let excess water run off. Then emulsion remover and lightly scrub both sides, let it sit for a minute. Reclaims pretty easy after that.

Best of all you can throw water based ink in it...usually we just print straight plastisol.

[mk162]

post expose must be the key for that stuff.  We tried it and it's ok, but it would breakdown on plasti around 100 prints or so....very frustrating.

[Homer]

ouch, thanks guys. think I'll avoid it. I am moving from HXT because we add diazo to it, I was having a hell of a time sourcing the diazo but I think I found a solution, so I may not need to switch after all! Still want to try out the LXP but getting a sample is easier said than done for some reason.

[screenprintguy]

Im telling you man, Murikami T9 sbq. No diazo, no hardener. Just did a bunch of wb jobs this week again, not a single sign of break down. Little post expose turns it into rock solid awesome stencil. The detail it holds is amazing as well. Our halftones have gotten significantly nicer with it as well. It's the bomb!!!

[Colin]

Do you still need to add a little water to it to get it to coat easier?

[screenprintguy]

Do you still need to add a little water to it to get it to coat easier?

T9? Not at all. I keep the bucket in use, in the screen room, pretty warm in there. No issues coating at all. Reclaims like a dream as well. I'll only post expose if using for WB/Discharge. The exposure times never change. When we used HXT for WB/Discharge, we had to significantly increase the exposure times to insure a strong screen.  The T9 is the real deal for sure. Spot Color Supply stocks it now too.

[Colin]

I got in a sample when it was in Beta.  Really rough to coat with.  It did level out why dry... but before that it left big long streaks in the coat.  Made me very nervous.

Maybe I should ask RC if they have another sample.

We will be going to Direct to Screen with a stand alone starlight later this year and I want a single emulsion that will do 60 lpi down to a 3% dot consistently but then turn around and do long run HSA/Discharge.

Currently using the Saati PHU, but options are awesome