Not sure how to print this

[whitewater]

i've got 350 of these bad boys..White ink on river blue and tru orange tees..Anvil..

Its white ink..they want the stuff that reads "20" to be 50% of the white...I was planning on halftoning it..I was thinking p/f/p on the auto with 2 screens...the halftones will muddy up a bit won't there?  Should i do the 2 screens,  1 with the solid and halftones and then another solid white..?

thanks

[mk162]

nope, here is how I would run it....

thin your white ink back for your UB, probably 60 white 40 curable reducer, maybe 70/30.  Play around with that. 

then print the solid white with a standard white and boom...you are good to go.  With those shirt colors this will work perfect...darkers colors might not let the white cover as well.

[whitewater]

no flash the solid white?

[JBLUE]

3 screens. Underprint white text 195 S, 20% white ink to soft hand clear on a 230, 230 highlight white. Super soft print and only 1 flash means only going around once on your machine.

[Inkworks]

nope, here is how I would run it....

thin your white ink back for your UB, probably 60 white 40 curable reducer, maybe 70/30.  Play around with that. 

then print the solid white with a standard white and boom...you are good to go.  With those shirt colors this will work perfect...darkers colors might not let the white cover as well.

I'd do this too. 2 screens, no 1/2 tones, flash between the screens.

[mk162]

2 screens, flash between the thinned out UB and the highlight

[Homer]

I think it would be cool for a bunch of guys to run this with the various methods mentioned and see which way really does look best...I'm not sure what I would do. My first thought is WB thinned out so there isn't any hand over that large of an area, get that washed out look....or based down plastisol....either way, I would want to do with without a flash because the shirt colors are so light....I think?

[blue moon]

you could use anything from 1 to 3 screens. It would depend on the customer.

option 1) cheap. One screen with halftones. Light color shirt, it would be OK for somebody on the budget.
2) two screens. One with halftones, quick flash (a little short of the full gel) and a step with a second white screen to smash the dots. If the fabric is light enough, this might even work without a flash. Second screen would have to be thick.
3. same as above, but discharge. One or two screens.
4.you could mix the 50% into a solid spot color and print it as an underbase. Flash and print the white on top. This would give you very clean look. Downsize is having to mix the 50% equivalent.
4. for a discerning customer, you could print white underbase, than the 50% equivalent in spot (easier to control the color) and then the white on top. This would be pretty smooth and crisp (halftones are always a little grainy)
5.and the ultimate would be to discharge the underbase and print the two colors on top.

What does your customer want to pay for?

pierre

[blue moon]

p.s. I would not have both screens with halftones if you go that route. One with everything and one with spot only, but that is my preference.

pierre

[alan802]

The "20" on a 225S, one stroke, no halftones, then flash it, the text on a 135S with one stroke and put it on the dryer.  Essentially one hit whites but with 2 different screens with a flash thrown in after the background white to keep buildup from happening. 

That background might be better off with a softer white ink, like others have suggested putting some reducer in it and perhaps going up to a 280T.  You might be able to get the text as a one hit white on a 150S, but I'd go with a 135S just so I wouldn't have to possibly shoot another screen.  And if by some odd reason the text isn't good with one stroke, I'd put it on a 123/55 and I know that would put that text at 100% opacity with one stroke and as long as your stencil isn't too thick the print will be soft and thin.  You'll be able to print really fast through that 135S and with very little pressure so you'll get a ton of opacity that you won't get out of a regular 137 or probably even a 110T.

[ZooCity]

Easy. Low activated white + base DC on screen 1 for the 20. DC white on screen 2.  No flash, no fuss.

[tonypep]

Thats how we would do it. Probably 2% activator as a starting point. We dubbed the techique "water mark and" use a shaded base for a dark shirt tone. Very popular for the resort and faith based lines. Stupid easy as well.

[jason-23]

One screen, halftone at 30-40%, pfp...have a nice day.

[IntegrityShirts]

Take any straight out of the bucket crappy water-based white ink, print that first, trust me it won't be opaque.  No flash.  Then print a 135 or 150 S-thread thick stencil plastisol for the bright section.


I am joking, but the more I think about it, the more I like the idea!!