"He who marches out of step hears another drum." ~ Ken Kesey
I have my floods set so that they are just short of touching the mesh.
QuoteI have my floods set so that they are just short of touching the mesh.Increase your flood pressure until you can just feel the flood bar slightly pushing into the mesh, when you run your hand underneath. maybe 1/16 of an inch, or so. You really need the flood bar to load the stencil with ink, rather than just plowing it over top. That way, all the squeegee has to do is shear it off instead of both driving it in & shearing it off. I've found this makes all the difference in the world with getting ink to clear w/o too much squeegee pressure.If you get too much flood pressure, you'll know, because your images will smear because ink is hanging blow the gasket, & your stencils will wear out at the margins, but you've got a little leeway, here.
I could not get some of the Union stuff to clear if my life depended on it. Which ink in particular?pierreRight there with ya on some union inks, I have to stroke twice or pretty firm to clear in one pass, and the union red and flesh inks are tacky as hell.Darryl
Here's what I tell my printers -- if the ink seems too thick, it is. If you can't get it through the mesh, adding a little reducer until it does is no big deal. Most plastisol ships more viscous than it needs to be, and modifiers are readily available.
I could not get some of the Union stuff to clear if my life depended on it. Which ink in particular?pierre
I like a halftone base or the wow base for modifying our inks if they don't print well. I just don't like curable reducer for some reason.