Shur-loc EZ Frame Conversion for Static Alums?

[DraginInk]

I need a visual. I've got a small pile of frames waiting for something to be done with. If they could get out and play like the Newmans... I believe their lives would be more complete.
Jim, Sheri and family have been nothing but helpful since I met them all toughs years ago

BTW, nice avatar Doug!

starting a new fad. lets see where it goes... then pick one!

[shurloc]

Ok everyone, I finally nailed Jim down for a quick "How to" on putting a kit on a frame... So as soon as youtube has it processed, you can check it out here...

Assembling an EZ Angle Conversion Kit

[Sbrem]

Yep, I would also like to see a video. We have a large batch we could convert...

Steve

[blue moon]

Yep, I would also like to see a video. We have a large batch we could convert...

Steve

Steve,
I have been thinking about it, the problem is the bushings would not align right any more and would have to be moved. Unfortunately the distance is so close that it might not be possible to get a clean hole drilled as it might overlap with the old one.

Has this been addressed by Shurloc and I am missing something?

pierre

[shurloc]

What bushings are your guys thinking about? Something like the MHM mounts or something totally different?

[blue moon]

What bushings are your guys thinking about? Something like the MHM mounts or something totally different?

yes, the MHM stuff.

the holes get drilled through a jig that places them at a certain distance from the mesh. By adding the angle plates, the mesh is moved away from the bushings and the off contact would be changed. In this case, the mesh would be few mm below the platten level. This can be adjusted on the press and moved up, but it would be extra work on a press that is configured and known for fast and simple.

pierre

[shurloc]

Just did a quick chat with David on this one and we both think that there wouldn't be any interference if you moved the template "up" towards the mesh side of the frame about 5/16"... This would be the 1/16" for the angle and 1/4" for the tension bar. Your off contact will still be different due to the higher tension and your squeegee pressure would be different as well.

Does that sound like an answer to the issue?

The other option there is to simply do a one time change to your press and convert all your frames at once... :-)

EDIT:  Just confirmed with Jim on the procedure on this one... Take one short side, place the tension bar on it, set the template on, then drill... So you will be approx. 5/16" above the original hole through the frame.

[squeegee]

Couldn't you remove the bushings, attach the angle and drill new holes with the jig?  That would put the bushings the same distance from the mesh and make your off contact the same as any other static or EZ frame I would think.

[blue moon]

Couldn't you remove the bushings, attach the angle and drill new holes with the jig?  That would put the bushings the same distance from the mesh and make your off contact the same as any other static or EZ frame I would think.

that was my question . . . If we drill the new holes how close will they be to the old holes? I think they will overlap and thus will not be able to get a good grip.

[blue moon]

Just did a quick chat with David on this one and we both think that there wouldn't be any interference if you moved the template "up" towards the mesh side of the frame about 5/16"... This would be the 1/16" for the angle and 1/4" for the tension bar. Your off contact will still be different due to the higher tension and your squeegee pressure would be different as well.

Does that sound like an answer to the issue?

The other option there is to simply do a one time change to your press and convert all your frames at once... :-)

EDIT:  Just confirmed with Jim on the procedure on this one... Take one short side, place the tension bar on it, set the template on, then drill... So you will be approx. 5/16" above the original hole through the frame.

OK, had a chance to think about it. So the new plate is 5/16th thick?

the screws are 3/16th thick so there would be possibly an 1/8th between the holes? Does this make sense?

pierre

[squeegee]

The screw would also have the angle itself to bite into.

[blue moon]

The screw would also have the angle itself to bite into.

aaah, good point!

[shurloc]

@blue moon - Yes, you have the "height" adjustment with the bar added that should give you that 1/8" or more of clearance...

@squeegee - Also correct... but if you were going to hit the same hole on the back side, there might be a chance over time that you would slot it out...

Also, option #2 is to just rotate the frame and use the opposite side for the mounts. Just put a bit of extra silicone in the holes where you remove the mounts and put the angle over the top of them...

[DraginInk]

Ok everyone, I finally nailed Jim down for a quick "How to" on putting a kit on a frame... So as soon as youtube has it processed, you can check it out here...

YAY! thanks gang!

[Sbrem]

Thanks Shurloc for the video, and Pierre and Squeegee with the followup questions. I'm showing this to my partner, and we may try out the starter kit. A tad more study before we pull the trigger, but it's pretty exciting to be able to convert statics this way.

Steve