How would you discharge this?

[ScreenPrinter123]

I have a red shirt order with a decent amount of open area for white and black ink.  I'm thinking of just using regular union plus for the black, but for the white I'd definitely like to discharge (we will be using the CCI brand).  What to do for the white?:

(1) Mix CCI base and white DC at some percentage and just print with that? (I've heard some people mix the two, but I'm guessing to achieve a certain "feel" and not for "vibrancy"?  Would this reduce vibrancy?)
(2) Straight white DC? (How will this look on a red shirt? Muted? I'm guessing there will be a variance in the white vibrancy based on each shirt's dye factors?)
(3) Straight CCI base with a 225 mesh plastisol white on top?
(4) Other suggestions...?

Thanks.

[ScreenPrinter123]

100% cotton, btw.

[JBLUE]

Straight white for us on a 160 or 180 S-mesh. I would also use black WB for the hand. 3-5% activator maybe 5% water depending on humidity.

[Gilligan]

Straight white for us on a 160 or 180 S-mesh. I would also use black WB for the hand. 3-5% activator maybe 5% water depending on humidity.

We've got a TON of that right now and for the rest of the week... thanks.

[ebscreen]

Depends on the red. Some discharge well, some don't.

If these don't, your next best bet is DC underbase and plastisol top for the white.

Depending on the application/garments, we sometimes add base to the white, roughly %10-20 or so.
Smooths it out a bit and keeps it a bit more consistent in the screen.

[ericheartsu]

or if you want a REALLY soft print, you can DC UB, and white waterbased on top. i've done it before. it looks great

[patfinn]

some reds are good some arent. we usually print a mixing white under base and then waterbase white on top. but a chino base white/reduced white on top would be a good way to go to avoid the reds not discharging well halfway through the run or something like that, since reds are kinda finicky.

also we have focused on white on red but are you printing black waterbase, or plastisol? black waterbase sometimes doesnt cover red all the way. so if you want to avoid that use a reduced plastisol black. (matsui spot black is a good one for covering anything.)
 

[Chadwick]

It's red.

I'd do plastisol, but if you have tones involved, pull the base back farther, double hit it (p/f/p/f),
and use the red as a mid-tone ( grey ) between the inks.
If you've got solids, whatever, it's a red shirt, you're fubar anyway.
Keep it tight, keep it smooth.
The white will be double hit, but that adds contrast to the black ink.
If you keep your ink right, it'll be fine.

Or whatever you figure works for you.
It's all good.
No matter what you do, don't overcook the shirts.
( red's a b*tch, lol )

Hope it works out.
Cheers.

[brandon]

All good points above. Everything from DC underbase with white WB on top or plastisol. No matter what red can be tricky. But in my opinion it really depends on the client. What are they going for? Soft hand or bright as day white? Do they know you are doing discharge or wanting to? Lots of factors and then of course the art itself....