pre-registration system

[tpitman]

The Vastex system, both the jig and the system that comes with a Vastex exposure unit, use round bump stops, the reason being (I think) is that the frame edges can tangentially only contact a very small part of the stop, which should eliminate any variation between 2 longer edges trying to mate (the frame and a flat-edged stop). As for carrier sheets, I only tape my film at two places along the top edge so there's no chance of it bunching up against an opposite taped edge. And as others mentioned, only register two films to one another, usually using the one with the most information as the "key" and register the others to it, minding not just the marks but the fit of any trap, choke or butt. Any offset shops I worked at always did it that way.

[blue moon]

man, this post exploded in no time!

Only the highest model of the MHM has auto registration (4000). On the regular one I have, micros are not motorized.

So I still have to turn the knobs just like everybody else.

What is different?

the screens lock in place by the pins so they go into the same position every time. If you take the screen out and put it back in, no registration is needed. 'probably goes back to within few thousands of an inch.

Another advantage is that the micros are not locked in and the adjustments can be done on the fly. If you start with the print pretty close to where it needs to be, you can take the next few shirts to tweak the registration. Yes, you end up with few showing the underbase or being misaligned, but usually not enough to matter.

Micros do not drift (unless there is something wrong with them. You can print thousands of prints and never have to worry about something moving. Also, they are very precise. On the high end prints we register to2-3/1000 of an inch. I thought it was more, but I had to go out an measure it few weeks ago and it really is that little. Same prints use registration marks that are only about 6/1000 of an inch wide.

so the reality is, with a DTS there might not be any need for the micros on the MHM. That is if the DTS really did what it was supposed to do. My understanding is that there are issues with warped frames and crashing heads. I wonder if the MHM's precision is higher than the DTS's (in the long run)?

[ebscreen]

To answer Alan's question on the MHM jig dealie-do...

Think about it your "zero" like this. Say you insert a screen into head 8 and
you're off by a bit one way. You micro it over and you're good to go. The next time
you insert a screen into that head, it should now be at it's "zero" provided
you did all the pre-reg right.

The screen pins really are like having a tri-loc on all of your heads, all of the time.
I almost puked in disgust when I realized that they were necessary for MHM machines,
but now I can't live without them.

[mooseman]

This is not quite to the level of registration that you are lookig for but it works pretty well for us to insure we are always within tarveling range on our manual.
Simple locator sheet that registers to the exposure glass via a couple of dress makers snaps silicone attached to the glass. Registration holes in the register or lacator sheet fit over the male half  of the dress snaps. Grid lines, pallet and newman screen indicators complete the sysyem. Pics should give you some insight.
mooseman

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x296/copdaddy/MRS4DSCF3151.jpg

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x296/copdaddy/MRS3DSCF3155.jpg

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x296/copdaddy/mrs2DSCF3164.jpg

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x296/copdaddy/MRS1DSCF3170.jpg

[squeegee]

On the E-type at any rate the micros have adjustable markers so you can set zero to your liking, we did that by putting a center line and horizontal line on all the pallets, set the markers on the micros and checked each pallet against the first using a screen with an identical pattern burned on.  Sounds confusing but it's easy and you reap major benefits from doing this.

[Evo]

So I was just thinking.


Usually, this is a dangerous thing.


I think I just figured out how to use the Tri-Loc without carrier sheets, and without taping the films to the screens.

As I am crazy busy, I will have to put this together in a few weeks after I get back from a road trip with my band.


If it works, I will be SO stoked.

[Homer]

DUDE -evo! you can't hand out that bit of info and leave us hanging for a few weeks. . it's like a stripper showing half a nipple. . .wtf man. . .

[Evo]

DUDE -evo! you can't hand out that bit of info and leave us hanging for a few weeks. . it's like a stripper showing half a nipple. . .wtf man. . .

When/if it works I will post the full monty.

 

[inkbrigade]

We've used both the Tri Loc and the newman system. The key is your press. If it isn't level, and hold register no system will ever work. You need flat pallets, screens the same tension. You need good films, nothing from a laser printer.
Lots of pieces to this puzzle. YMMV.

[mk162]

And that is what I am working on.  Our press is older, but it's a decent press, getting everything set back to factory or set properly has been a chore.  The hardest thing are the off contacts.  I can't ever seem to get them perfect and consistent.  And yes, my platens are level, i have a nifty trick I learned from a tech on that one.

[alan802]

I know that Newman recommends that you send a pallet in and they attach the arms there but there is no telling how much that costs, as nothing of theirs is cheap. 


Memory tells me it was $1000 (possibly a hair more, but I'm pretty sure it wasn't less).

As far as centering the arms I think it would be as easy as putting a vertical line on the center of the screen to lay over a center line drawn on the pallet the pin locks on the screen would put the outstretched pin arms where they belong. As long as you have it 98% straight and centered I don't see it making a difference in the final product (shirt print). All the screens will be registered on the same pallet so they would all be in register to each other. Of course, I am thinking this with out seeing the actual pallet arms.

Would JB Weld work? How were the affixed to the pallet of your centurian?

I used contact cement, but I've used JB weld for other things around the shop including our pallet jig that we use now and it would probably work as well or better than the contact cement.

[GraphicDisorder]

Well we love our Tri-Loc.  Its easily worth the money in my opinion.  We are often dead nuts or need to micro maybe 1 head a little.  Its cut our set up time down a lot and we came from a VRS Vastex system. 

[Shanarchy]

Well we love our Tri-Loc.  Its easily worth the money in my opinion.  We are often dead nuts or need to micro maybe 1 head a little.  Its cut our set up time down a lot and we came from a VRS Vastex system.

What do you think makes the tri-loc more accurate?

[Evo]

Well we love our Tri-Loc.  Its easily worth the money in my opinion.  We are often dead nuts or need to micro maybe 1 head a little.  Its cut our set up time down a lot and we came from a VRS Vastex system.

What do you think makes the tri-loc more accurate?

The stops. The master frame and the pallet are perfectly matched. Also, you are registering on a light table with a loupe. I line up the reg marks dead perfect, then I look throughout the image to make sure the butt registration is matched dot-for-dot. Only way to get it closer would be a microscope, and I am actually looking into that. I'm looking at setting up a USB microscope so I can register everything through a monitor so I don't have to bend over the light table any more.

Also, I think using a pre-reg system with front/back or side clamps with air locks will beat out a back clamped manually locked down screen. You pop the screen in, line it up and flick a switch. It's held on two sides instead of one, much more stability and accuracy.

[Shanarchy]

Well we love our Tri-Loc.  Its easily worth the money in my opinion.  We are often dead nuts or need to micro maybe 1 head a little.  Its cut our set up time down a lot and we came from a VRS Vastex system.

What do you think makes the tri-loc more accurate?

The stops. The master frame and the pallet are perfectly matched.

Would the stops actually play a roll if they were slightly off from press to exposure unit? The bumps on the exposure unit get all the screens burned in register. The bumps on the press get all the screens locked on press in register. So wouldn't the only difference be very slight in square and center? But the screens would all still register to each other.

Thoughts?