Water Proof Emulsion Question

[jsheridan]

Coating 3x2 with diazo on a 3140 will be closer to 250 -300 ltu's.

A 1x2 coat will expose in the 150 ltu range.

[JBLUE]

Coating 3x2 with diazo on a 3140 will be closer to 250 -300 ltu's.

A 1x2 coat will expose in the 150 ltu range.

150 is about where I run 195-230 2/2 with standard WP film on the same unit.

Is there a particular reason why you are running a 156 3/2 Brian?

[ebscreen]

I think at some point your emulsion should be like your white plastisol.

Choose one and stick with it.

[tonypep]

Thats what I do. If it works for WB then it works for everything else. Diazo so a bit slow but I'm shooting 4 up. Use a pressure washer to rinse, squeegeee off excess water and then hit with 90 PSI of air. Screens are practically dry before the hit the rack. After about two minutes ready for blockout.
Hence the eighty screens in eighty minutes (Oh no I didn't!)

[ebscreen]

Well, that's two shops I respect that have compressed air in the screen room. Might have to look
into this.

Anyone have experience with the wet/dry vacs and a water sucker screen safe attachment?

[Screened Gear]

Well, that's two shops I respect that have compressed air in the screen room. Might have to look
into this.

Anyone have experience with the wet/dry vacs and a water sucker screen safe attachment?

Sean am I one of the shops you respect? I have used compressed air in my washout process since I started. It works great on 305 screens with high detail. Plus it speeds up the drying time.

[jasonl]

Well, that's two shops I respect that have compressed air in the screen room. Might have to look
into this.

Anyone have experience with the wet/dry vacs and a water sucker screen safe attachment?

Sean am I one of the shops you respect? I have used compressed air in my washout process since I started. It works great on 305 screens with high detail. Plus is speeds up the drying time.

been doing this for 15 years!

[ebscreen]

Didn't know you did too John. But yes.

[tonypep]

Well, that's two shops I respect that have compressed air in the screen room. Might have to look
into this.

Anyone have experience with the wet/dry vacs and a water sucker screen safe attachment?

That will work very well also. Majestech used to make an aluminium tube with a slit in it but somewhersomeone posted a how to make your own version. The ones that come with the shop vac work but, as they are plastic, get dinged pretty quickly.

[brandon]

Compressed air in the screen room is a must. Prevents any drip action from drying in the image area. And speeds up the process a lot!

[Inkworks]

I have compressed air in the screen room, but that's not what we use, we use one of these to get 90% of the water off:

[tonypep]

Thats what we use but follow up with air

[JBLUE]

Using air here since day one as well.

[Homer]

we use air too, and I made one of those squeegie deals out of an old windshield wiper. . .made a handle out of conduit. . .ghetto fabulous but it works like a damn champ. . air helps a ton, just make sure you get a filter on your airline of you'll be blowing dirty oil air all over your screens.

[inkman996]

Hey Brian here is a real down and dirty band aide but it may save a screen or two. If when you get dried in scum one of two things will soften it, water or emulsion remover. Many years ago when we sucked at screens I would get scum out with hopefully water first then if not try to dab some emulsion remover carefully where the scum was let it soften up the scum then clean out quickly, if an edge was effected then try to band aide it with tape. I know real ghetto but hey no one learned everything in a day.

We always blow our screens out with air, if it has fine details use distance to lower the pressure but pretty much a well developed screen will hold its edge when hit with the air.