union plasticharge...

[JayMan419]

Anyone have any experience using this product? Was thinking of getting some in to get my feet wet in the discharge process with this product any thoughts??

[3Deep]

I use it here and there, you just have to get your mix right, and yes it works pretty good with color inks...did some black T's with an orange print and the union plasticharge worked like magic.

Darryl

[mk162]

it's a decent product.  straight discharge is easier to work with.

Color mixing is a little rough, you can use high opacity colors with the base, use 60% color, 40% base and then around 6% activator to make the colors pop.  Play around with that though and see what works for you.

[JayMan419]

exactly what is was looking for! Thank you Darryl and mk162 for the specifics with percentages excellent advice. I think i may go to a straight discharge eventually just want to try this out before i go that route

[ebscreen]

No experience with the Union, but I did use to use the Wilflex quite a bit.

Some colors; blues, greys, some greens etc, it's great for. Getting a bright
red or white ain't gonna happen though, and it can be disappointing.

It is quite a bit more user friendly than real waterbased discharge,
but if you do a little more on the front end, the results are well worth
it for the real thing.

[mk162]

you can get bright red..i have a sample on the wall to prove it, use the method I described above.

[Frog]

I figured that that was where you were going with your "plastisol as pigment" comment.
I've used the Wilflex version of this hybrid stuff and would have to say that it is fine for what it is. Don't count on matching any colors as it really tends to lighten up.
The Murakami Aquasol emulsion was pretty good for this.

[mk162]

It's like discharge, you need to play with the colors and the amount of plastisol you are using...also, for reds and golds i recommend using high opacity colors.

[Screened Gear]

CCI has one called P-charge. I have some here. I did one job with it. It was on orange AA shirts. The white looked ok with just one print. I then did a PFP with it. I have to say it was the best looking white I have ever done. It was super thin and was really bright. They suggest 50/50 with 3 percent charge.

[JayMan419]

I will be getting some I think. I use a lot of J&S HO for colors anywas so hopefully that'll work out good for me. The emulsion thing I do have concerns about. I use autotype 8000 plus which is diazo sensitized and says H2O and solvent resistant. But I don't believe it will hold up. I have heard discharge can be pretty aggressive on a stencil. Maybe a reclaimable hardener might be needed. Or like Frog suggested a new emulsion all together.

[jsheridan]

autotype 8000 plus which is diazo sensitized

As long as you have diazo and correctly expose it. No need for hardener on short manual runs.

You could use a better emulsion if you want to, the 8000 is good for now.

[tonypep]

I believe the hybrid plasticharge systems have more shortcomings than benefits but I am biased after printing straight discharge decades before the hybrids came about. Nowadays with Pantone starter formulas and more systems to choose from its so much more user friendly with better results. Their main purpose was to attract those afraid of using pigments to formulate colors in the dark, so to speak. Much of that has changed. My suggestion is to try each and compare side by side.

[Printhouse]

After meeting with then Fuji folks yesterday there is no comparison. 

[Frog]

It's like discharge, you need to play with the colors and the amount of plastisol you are using...also, for reds and golds i recommend using high opacity colors.

For my first try with this stuff, the artist client was shooting for a Pantone violet, but had some wiggle room. (actually, many Pantone matches better have a little wiggle room even with conventional inks)
With my first mix test, using high opacity Mixopake inks, at the prescribed 50%, I judged how much it lightened by comparing to the Pantone guide. Then, I had a rough idea of what color to shoot for to actually end up in the ballpark of what we wanted.

Probably, what attracted me to this particular type of ink over "real" discharge were a few things;
1. It requires little more than the same as conventional plastisol curing, making it perfect for my non-air-assisted ten foot American antique and it's five feet of heat. (Although Pierre has done great true discharge, albeit slow, work with a similar dryer.)
2. The Godawful smell I experienced when using the first generation of discharge inks back in the '90's. I could not imagine that in my small building, nor could I vent it out in my proximity to the residence next door.

[blue moon]

After meeting with then Fuji folks yesterday there is no comparison.

Who did you meet with. Mike? Was there somebody else?

pierre