screen printing > Ink and Chemicals
Wilflex Epic - PC or Equalizers?
ErinAllenLamb:
I try to explain things as simply as possible. People have a hard time understanding why we even have Eqaulizers and I just always explain it as an option to use different bases without the uncertainty of making an ink that is unbalanced. I do agree with Tony that if you follow the formulas in IMS you will make a balanced ink with PC Express. If you need to shade or make a custom color, all you have to do is enter into IMS and make sure it is balanced and you are good! :)
As for Epic Peformance Base. I went to one of our Guru's Adam Scaife. He is our Northeastern Sales Manager and he has extensive experience with the product.
For Epic Peformance WOW printing he advised that he has printed 6 colors WOW with no problems. When you start to see build up issues is when you overflash. Performance Base flashes between 180 - 220F in roughly 2 seconds, so it is quit fast. He did state for best results, underbase with Epic Peformance Base UB Gray - flash and then colors on top. He is also printing his colors through a 230 mesh.
For Epic Peformance PMS matches, Adam recommends using the GNS Plus and PC formulas as a guide and having the pigment loading at 15 to 20% formulas - pigment to base ratio. If you want an exact match - you can email techserviceswilflex@polyone.com or call 800-326-0226 and press 1. We will see if we have a formula internally and/or process a free of charge color match for you. The color match can take up to 2 days, so if you know you need it, ensure you call or email ASAP. If you email, make sure you include that you are using the Epic Peformance Base and Epic PCs (I am sure you would, but you would be surprised what we get :))
I am glad to help!
Erin
alan802:
I am considering going to a mixing system as well and before this thread started, I had very little knowledge other than each major ink brand had a mixing system. I had to read this thread several times to get a decent grasp on the 2 systems and then after some interwebbing research I still don't quite know which system would better suit our needs. I like the fact that we have our standard red out there and I have it in an opaque version then a based down version sitting right next to it. I worry about the ink's opacity within these different mixing systems and wonder how they compare to what we are used to printing with. With all our more popular colors we have 2 different versions, opaque or the lesser opaque version for use on lighter colored garments. I guess I want control over the opacity of the inks, not just the color.
How much control over opacity will I have with a custom mixed pantone color with each of these 2 systems? I think I know the answer to this but I am still very much a newb to this subject.
ErinAllenLamb:
Let me confuse you a little more before I clarify! :)
Most ink manufacturers actually offer 3 mixing systems. There is the finished ink mixing system; Wilflex calls this MX. The Pigment Concentrate and Base Mixing system; Wilflex calls this PC Express. Then the balanced colorant and base mixing system; Wilflex calls this Equalizers.
The most basic and easiest to use would be the finished ink systems. However, you cannot control opacity and you cannot change your base. If you want to integrate some SPFX you can, but you do not see the whole effect. So, if you generally just print t-shirts, sweatshirts, etc. you are good.
If you want the ability to change bases for different special effects or fabric requirements, then either a Base and Pigment Concentrate or Base and Balanced Colorant system is better for you.
Both systems give the ability to control opacity. This can be done by changing your base to more opaque bases or by beefing up forumulas to be heavier in certain pigments. We have formulas to make all of the standard colors that we offer in PC Express and many are also offered in Equalizers. Then you could take your standard color that you generally use, mix it with your mixing system and if you want extend it out to be for light colors.
A mixing system is very cost effective and gives you a ton of options.
I hope that didn't confuse you more.
Erin
Colin:
To clarify more about mixing systems and opacities.
--- Quote from: alan802 on June 02, 2011, 02:39:28 PM ---I like the fact that we have our standard red out there and I have it in an opaque version then a based down version sitting right next to it. I worry about the ink's opacity within these different mixing systems and wonder how they compare to what we are used to printing with. With all our more popular colors we have 2 different versions, opaque or the lesser opaque version for use on lighter colored garments. I guess I want control over the opacity of the inks, not just the color.
How much control over opacity will I have with a custom mixed pantone color with each of these 2 systems? I think I know the answer to this but I am still very much a newb to this subject.
--- End quote ---
The only mixing system that gives you opacity ratings along with your pantone formulas is QCM's QMX mixing system. The other manufacturers do not do this. The QMX system, since it is a high opacity finished ink mixing system, also has clear as part of the system in order to acheive accurate color mixes.
So, with all the other ready for use mixing systems, you will need to have a finished clear ink of choice next to it to reduce the opacity of the finished ink you would like to have. Conversely, depending on the finished mixing system you choose, you have now reached your maximum opacity.
The only way to improve that opacity is to add either the color concentrates (Wilflex) or color boosters (Rutland).
The drawback to adding these to your ink system of choice is the possiblity of over adding pigments. If you add to much you will find several things happen. 1) You will have terrible crocking issues 2) the ink will physically build up on the back of your screens (it will be pigment build up) 3) at extreme additions you will experience extended cure times due to an imbalance of the inks. 4) you will now have an over saturated color and your PMS mix will no longer be accurate.
This last may or may not be an issue for you if you are printing through high mesh counts. Higher mesh counts with their thinner ink deposit give the visual effect of having added some clear to your inks. Also, if you are over printing on a white plate, that too will thin out your ink deposit giving your ink a brighter cleaner look.
Erin is correct in that both pigment and equalizer/color booster formulas give you the ability to control your opacity. However (the last I checked) neither formula guide gives you a formula to follow to acheive a specific opacity. It is up to you the printer to decide how much pigment loading you actually need. This means you will be creating your recipes all over again for each color you want to have an opaque version and translucent version for.
The very first shop I was a printer in we used the Wilflex pigment mixing system. This was back in 1996 and I personally really like the flexibility I get from both a pigment and color booster/equalizer sytem. I am a printer who does want to have an opaque version for one hit colors on darks while having a translucent ink for doing sim-process and index printing. I will make new formulas for all the inks that I need to do this to. I really like the idea of having different bases for doing athletic, special effect, extreme softhand, etc. In the shop I would set up for myself, I would pick a color booster/equalizer or pigment system.
What system you bring into your shop depends entirly on who will be doing your mixes. You want someone who is not afraid to ask questions, learns quickly, and pays attention to the little things. And the ability to create your own special mixes to set your prints apart is priceless.
Good luck with your search!
Frog:
If you are going plastisol, and want a finished ink system, I can recommend Union's Mix-Opake system, but partly because I was using mostly Union inks anyway, and it was nice to have the formulas for their stock colors as well as the pantones.
On darks, I used to use this straight like a Union Maxopake P-F-P, on lights, based down even softer than an Ultrasoft, as much as 3 parts base to 1 part ink.
Nowadays, on darks with underbases, I often use something in-between by using less whack, but not going super translucent.
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