Printing a 15" white circle on black shirts

[ebscreen]

Discharge White is a standalone white.

Discharge Base is typically mixed with waterbased pigments to create discharge colors. Can also be used straight or mixed (80 base/20 discharge) white to create an underbase ink, which is typically overprinted with standard plastisols.

PlastiCharge base is mixed with plastisol inks to make a hybrid system.


All of these require activator in amounts of %3-%6 (yes you can go higher) to work.

[GraphicDisorder]

Discharge White is a standalone white.

Discharge Base is typically mixed with waterbased pigments to create discharge colors. Can also be used straight or mixed (80 base/20 discharge) white to create an underbase ink, which is typically overprinted with standard plastisols.

PlastiCharge base is mixed with plastisol inks to make a hybrid system.


All of these require activator in amounts of %3-%6 (yes you can go higher) to work.

Bonus points for most straight forward post yet.

But yes that is how I "thought" I was understanding it.  I did however feel like the Discharge white would look better.  Again that's probably my ignorance about it or doing something wrong. 

[Printhouse]

I think Ineed to ditch this plasticharge idea and just call the sericol rep and by the ready to use stuff

[JBLUE]

I think Ineed to ditch this plasticharge idea and just call the sericol rep and by the ready to use stuff

You will kick yourself in the nuts for not doing it sooner. It is as easy as it gets.........

[Nick Bane]

yeah with the discharge white, to print white, i mix about 60% white/40% base.  the extra base helps to bump the discharging of the dye and in turn makes the white brighter, imo anyway.  seems backwards compared to plastisol, but thats what works for me.  and yes, the sericol rfu inks are awesome as well.

[ScreenPrinter123]

Discharge White is a standalone white.

Discharge Base is typically mixed with waterbased pigments to create discharge colors. Can also be used straight or mixed (80 base/20 discharge) white to create an underbase ink, which is typically overprinted with standard plastisols.

PlastiCharge base is mixed with plastisol inks to make a hybrid system.


All of these require activator in amounts of %3-%6 (yes you can go higher) to work.

2 things:
(1) serial vs cci in colors: sericol is straight out of the bucket the color it will be whereas cci you can get pigments to mix in with cci base in order to achieve whatever color you want. Does cci have pigments - for some reason I vaguely recalling them "working on it" a few months ago or am I confusing that with something else. So am I wrong in thinking that -- assuming cci has the pigments --while it's simpler to go with sericol since it's out of the bucket the color it is, it would be (a) a lot more expensive to stock a bunch of different sericol colors than just having cci base with small amounts of different pigments to make whatever color you want to turn the base into? And (b) therefore making cci more versatile?

(2) This cracking issue of printing plastisol over discharge white - is it noticeable immediately out of the dryer or only after the garment is washed?  I take it with the 70base/30 discharge white that has been suggested for an underbase to put plastisol prints on top, that would not be enough discharge white to cause the cracking issue?  Anyone know at what ratio you are pushing the envelope, encroaching on the edge of having the cracking issue when mixing white and base?  Obviously if some of the base/DC white mix is showing in the design you'd want to make it as white as possible (presuming it's supposed to be white) but also balance it to where the plastisol top prints won't be having this cracking issue.

Thanks.

[Nick Bane]

the CCI mixing pigments are now available, just got mine last week.  they were working on it for a while, but should be available to all now.

[Rockers]

the CCI mixing pigments are now available, just got mine last week.  they were working on it for a while, but should be available to all now.

Yeah you just have to be lucky enough for them to reply to an email. Waiting now almost 10 days for quotes and infos and the excuse they gave me is that they are on the road right now and of course the Vagas trade show made it as well impossible to reply to emails. They are either under staffed or badly organized at CCI. Hopefully their products live up to the hype.

[jasonl]

At SGIA Vegas last week, CCI had all the pigments and 1 gallon of base for $80 bucks.

[Rockers]

At SGIA Vegas last week, CCI had all the pigments and 1 gallon of base for $80 bucks.

Would you know if that sets includes as well some fluorescent pigments?

[jasonl]

At SGIA Vegas last week, CCI had all the pigments and 1 gallon of base for $80 bucks.

Would you know if that sets includes as well some fluorescent pigments?

They told me it included every color in the mustard bottle and a gallon of base.

[Binkspot]

By no means am I an expert or can even compare to some people here but just a few observations we have made over the past two months dabbling in discharge and water base. Some might be obvious or redundant.

Results on the manual can be completely different then on the auto, found I could produce a much better print with the auto.

The print looks like crap before it is flashed and or run through the dryer. The first few times I ran the D-White it appeared not to have good coverage, the appearance of laying a coat of white plastisol through a high mesh on a dark garment. Out of habit I would print-flash-print the discharge causing excessive build up of the pigment and a rough hand. No need just get it down on the garment and go.

The print feels completely different after wash and dry.

Changes everything as far as we are concerned. 90% of the work we do other then poly jerseys and wicking is 100% cotton, simply do not offer blends to customers. Prefect to take advantage of the discharge and wb.

Testing we were able to print the D-Base, flash and D-White on garments that were not recommended or a "C" rating for discharge as per the Gildan chart with good results.

IMO need winged flood bars or ink traps to keep the ink over the stencil.

I had to adjust the squeegee angle from almost vertical to a steep angle to get the discharge to lay down nice.

You can run it with normal emulsion for very short or test runs. It also is the greatest emulsion remover ever.

More squeegee pressure is needed to get the stuff into the fibers.

The D-White is not as bright as a good plastisol print but still looks great plus the benefit of a soft hand.

It can be cut with water to allow it to saturate into the fibers deeper and still get desired results.

Clean up is easy. 

Tried the Magna Plasticharge and was not impressed with the results. We will be trying it again with different ratios of plastisol.   

We have printed some colors using the CCI pigment system. Easy to mix, easy to use. Did a yellow and white imprint left chest on a black shirt. Fire and police dept logos with small print and fine lines. The job was two orders, first was done in August with plastisol, pia to reg with the white ub and yellow top. Did the second batch last week with the D-White and WB mixed yellow. It came out perfect. No print flash print, no trying to reg the yellow to the under base, just a butt reg between the yellow and white.

The pigment kit we got was nine bottles of pigment, D-Base and D-White.

Still have lots to learn and looking forward to it.
 

[Homer]

just to add here B, you will want to order extra blanks because the spoilage rate is a bit higher, there is no spot gun to get it out -unless you catch it before it goes down the tunnel. Pinholes can be a killer, reg has to be dead nuts, no monkeying around, once the inks hit the screens, strike off then start jammin. have a spray bottle of water handy and 2 rags, one damp, one dry. tape your screens if a large run....what about mixing the activator, I think a lot of you guys prefer to add it to a splash of hot water first, then into the mix? we just mix it in. then drill it.

[Mr Tees!!]

...What is really cool about it, is that you actually use the formula IN THE PMS BOOK to color match. No secondary recipe to look up!!!

[Screened Gear]

At SGIA Vegas last week, CCI had all the pigments and 1 gallon of base for $80 bucks.

Would you know if that sets includes as well some fluorescent pigments?

The CCI mixing system is the pantone basic colors found in the front or back of your pantone book. There is no flo colors. They are working on premix flo colors if I remember my conversation I had with them in Vegas.

Below is how you get them. I got mine over a month ago. I hear they updated the Rubin Red to make it stronger.