"He who marches out of step hears another drum." ~ Ken Kesey
Yep. If you got tight art, that's built with the gear in mind, you can make a beautiful print with damn near any kind of ink or press setup.
How about the Wilflex Epic inks. I`m talking pigment concentrates with an epic base. Which base would be suitable for wow printing?
We use wilflex epic inks exclusively for WOW with EXCELLENT results.
Quote from: Rockers on October 08, 2012, 07:53:11 PMHow about the Wilflex Epic inks. I`m talking pigment concentrates with an epic base. Which base would be suitable for wow printing?We run the regular Epic Base for WOW, works great. We use PCs too and if you go maximum pigment in an ink you'll hurt it's WOW characteristics but that goes without saying. I'm hoping to have something worthy to try out the halftone mixing base soon and see if that improves the WOW characteristics at all.
Quote from: ZooCity on October 08, 2012, 02:01:42 PM150/48 and sometime up for the ub. 180/48, 225/40, 310/30, 330/30 for top colors, depending on what needs to get done up top. Yes, select high quality WOW inks (any good brand is probably fine) and don't modify them at all. Warm, stir well and print. If tension, off contact, parallel is good and blades are sharp and properly set you'll get along great with WOW. One more piece of this puzzle are the seps- some seps (like Mr. Dan's here and I'm sure other separator's work) are made with ink deposit in mind and some (like maybe our in-house ones), not so much. This can result in a bunch of mud in one area of the print and inadequate coverage in another area. There's nothing you can do, no matter how pro you are at WOW printing, to fix a situation that began in the art. I think this is a really common issue/error with sim process.You are so correct, I would rather have GREAT seps and a sh!tty press, then the other way around. Seps are the MOST important IMO!
150/48 and sometime up for the ub. 180/48, 225/40, 310/30, 330/30 for top colors, depending on what needs to get done up top. Yes, select high quality WOW inks (any good brand is probably fine) and don't modify them at all. Warm, stir well and print. If tension, off contact, parallel is good and blades are sharp and properly set you'll get along great with WOW. One more piece of this puzzle are the seps- some seps (like Mr. Dan's here and I'm sure other separator's work) are made with ink deposit in mind and some (like maybe our in-house ones), not so much. This can result in a bunch of mud in one area of the print and inadequate coverage in another area. There's nothing you can do, no matter how pro you are at WOW printing, to fix a situation that began in the art. I think this is a really common issue/error with sim process.
Quote from: jasonl on October 08, 2012, 03:10:22 PMQuote from: ZooCity on October 08, 2012, 02:01:42 PM150/48 and sometime up for the ub. 180/48, 225/40, 310/30, 330/30 for top colors, depending on what needs to get done up top. Yes, select high quality WOW inks (any good brand is probably fine) and don't modify them at all. Warm, stir well and print. If tension, off contact, parallel is good and blades are sharp and properly set you'll get along great with WOW. One more piece of this puzzle are the seps- some seps (like Mr. Dan's here and I'm sure other separator's work) are made with ink deposit in mind and some (like maybe our in-house ones), not so much. This can result in a bunch of mud in one area of the print and inadequate coverage in another area. There's nothing you can do, no matter how pro you are at WOW printing, to fix a situation that began in the art. I think this is a really common issue/error with sim process.You are so correct, I would rather have GREAT seps and a sh!tty press, then the other way around. Seps are the MOST important IMO!I kinda get that concept, but a shitty press makes the good seps look shitty... I guess I'd rather have both.Steve