Wet on wet/what mesh count is best.

[Rockers]

So far we have mainly be using N166 for doing wet on wet on top of a white base. Just wondering if we should up or mesh count to N205 or even N272? What are the pros and cons of using higher mesh. I assume less build up on succeeding screens and a overall better print. Anything else?

[jasonl]

I use a 110 to 200 for my base according to art.  230 -305 for top colors and top white.

[tpitman]

Did a 2-color over flashed white on black tees wet on wet. White was a 230, colors were 305. White was IC 711LF White. Very good coverage through higher mesh counts, and easy to print.

[blue moon]

we use 305 on the t-shirts and higher mesh on the hoodies.

I've found that if we use a lower mesh count, we are depositing too much ink and it is mushrooming out when the next color is printed!

pierre

[3Deep]

Wet on wet printing allso has a lot to do with your inks as well as your mesh count, some inks just don't do wet on wet good at all.

Darryl

[blue moon]

Wet on wet printing allso has a lot to do with your inks as well as your mesh count, some inks just don't do wet on wet good at all.

Darryl

excellent point!

pierre

[GraphicDisorder]

Wet on wet printing allso has a lot to do with your inks as well as your mesh count, some inks just don't do wet on wet good at all.

Darryl

Examples?

[jasonl]

Wet on wet printing allso has a lot to do with your inks as well as your mesh count, some inks just don't do wet on wet good at all.

Darryl

Examples?

Cheap ink!  If you elect to use bargin ink, chances are your wet on wet prints will suffer.  I know from experience.  Not to say that there are not some good bargain inks available, but be careful.

[mk162]

some ink formulations are terrible for wow printing.  Like the OLD Wilflex MP line, awful wow ink. 

[inkman996]

Maxo's fron union.

[ScreenFoo]

Maxo's fron union.

I was just thinking that.  Old SSV series from wiflex was pretty horrible WOW too.

*Most* whites.

[tpitman]

The job I mentioned used yellow that I got when I bought my press second hand. I'm pretty sure it's Triangle. I started the job using QCM's XOLB Bright Red, but it has a nasty tendency to drop ink along behind the squeegee as you push it, sometimes leaving a blob on the print itself as the screen is still in contact with the shirt and pulls the blob through. Also had to wipe buildup from the back, especially where the red and yellow touched at one spot but wasn't supposed to blend. Switched to Union Ultrasoft Bright Red, and didn't have to wipe the build up off once. The edge where the two touched stayed clean through the remainder of the job. The only think I don't like about the ultrasoft is it cures too glossy.

[ZooCity]

150/48 and sometime up for the ub.

180/48, 225/40, 310/30, 330/30 for top colors, depending on what needs to get done up top.

Yes, select high quality WOW inks (any good brand is probably fine) and don't modify them at all.  Warm, stir well and print. 

If tension, off contact, parallel is good and blades are sharp and properly set you'll get along great with WOW.   

One more piece of this puzzle are the seps- some seps (like Mr. Dan's here and I'm sure other separator's work) are made with ink deposit in mind and some (like maybe our in-house ones), not so much.  This can result in a bunch of mud in one area of the print and inadequate coverage in another area.  There's nothing you can do, no matter how pro you are at WOW printing, to fix a situation that began in the art.  I think this is a really common issue/error with sim process.

[3Deep]

I got some union inks red for one that is sticky as all get out and a few other colors that don't print well wet on wet and a couple of inks from WM plastics that don't print very well.

Darryl

[jasonl]

150/48 and sometime up for the ub.

180/48, 225/40, 310/30, 330/30 for top colors, depending on what needs to get done up top.

Yes, select high quality WOW inks (any good brand is probably fine) and don't modify them at all.  Warm, stir well and print. 

If tension, off contact, parallel is good and blades are sharp and properly set you'll get along great with WOW.   

One more piece of this puzzle are the seps- some seps (like Mr. Dan's here and I'm sure other separator's work) are made with ink deposit in mind and some (like maybe our in-house ones), not so much.  This can result in a bunch of mud in one area of the print and inadequate coverage in another area.  There's nothing you can do, no matter how pro you are at WOW printing, to fix a situation that began in the art.  I think this is a really common issue/error with sim process.

You are so correct, I would rather have GREAT seps and a sh!tty press, then the other way around.  Seps are the MOST important IMO!