CCI D-white 305 screen?

[JBLUE]

So how did it turn out Jon? Pics?

[Screened Gear]

haven't done them yet. I will not get to them until tomorrow. You know the customers get the yes we can get them done then takes their time with the approvals and dropping the shirts off. I will post what I can when they are done.

[ZooCity]

haven't done them yet. I will not get to them until tomorrow. You know the customers get the yes we can get them done then takes their time with the approvals and dropping the shirts off. I will post what I can when they are done.

I've always been puzzled by this behavior.

[Get Shirts]

Hurry up and wait!

[Screened Gear]

Ok I got the jobs done. I did 5 jobs with 1 color front and 2 color back discharge on black (white front white and red back). There was some gildan 2000's, bellas, nextlevels and even some 50/50 hoodies. I figured I was in trouble but it was a rush and had to be done. All the designs had detailed fronts. The one below is just one of five. I did them all on 305 mesh at 50 LPI (a little afraid to go higher).

All the shirts discharged fine except the Nextlevels. Some did and some didn't so much. They still looked ok but was about 20 percent less white then the gildans. The 50/50 was brighter than the nextlevels. I added some white pigment from the CCi kit to bump up the white. (not sure if this was a good idea or not) It worked. The NL shirts brightened by about 5 percent. I added about 2 to 3 percent white to the mix. I used 6 percent activator. I ran them through the dryer a second time to make sure they were discharging fully and the color did not change.

I have to say on press it was headache free. No flash just wet on wet. Even the back 2 color print went smooth.

I wish the files were sharper than they were but all in all the print came out better then I expected.

[JBLUE]

Nice work Jon!

[Screened Gear]

The customer picked up and was very happy. I did wash testing on them and they stayed bright and now have no hand.

[Screened Gear]

I finally got a good picture in daylight today. The other pic was taken under florescent and looked alot more yellow then the print really was. the picture below was done after the first wash under the skylights in the shop. The second pic is the inside of the shirt. It shows how much ink penetration I got with a 305 screen.

[ZooCity]

Looks pretty good except I don't see any dots in there that would require a 305.  From the pic I'd have run this 45 lpi on a 225. 

How did they wash? I'm curious if the added white pigment just washes out or if it bonds. 

[Screened Gear]

Zoocity,

This design is all halftone dots. It was a rush and the customer had lower res files. The files were all increased in size at one point so everything was blurry or just dirty and I couldn't clean then up enough in time so I just made what they had work. RUSH = best work for time given. Below is a shot of the face. It could have been done with a lower mesh and with a lower LPI but I didn't want to lose any detail.

[Screened Gear]

zoo,

sorry forgot to answer the white pigment question. I have no idea if it stayed on or not. I only printed 2 samples of this design. The only way I could tell is keep a nextlevel that didn't discharge very well in the beginning to one from the end of the run after I added the white. Then cut each in half washing one half then compare. I wish I did because a few others have wanted to know also. I know it penetrated very well so I would have to guess some of that white pigment would have stayed. It didn't brighten the shirts up a ton only about 5 percent. I only added 3 percent to the D-white. I didn't know if even that much was "OK". I think this is a question for Tony or maybe CCI. Its all new to me.

[ZooCity]

It's hard to tell with the pigment because:

• Who knows how much you thinned with water, maybe adding back the pigment just brought it up to "out of the bucket" levels.
• The extra pig may have wound up too far on top of the fabric and looked opaque out the dryer but rinsed away over a few washings, bringing it back down to pre-pigment loading brightness.

Kind of the rub with discharge printing.  I would imagine CCI beefed it's D-White up with all the pigment it can hold right out of the bucket but hard tellin' not knowin'.  As a comparison I would never, ever, add WFX PC White to my Quick White for fear of crocking issues.  But again, only the mfg could tell us regarding this.

Here's a quick pic of a monochrome we just ran on AA BB401 50/50s believe it or not.  Sericol inks, 45lpi through a 225/48 S, one hit with the manny squeegee.  Had to back off the activator to keep it tonal as the AA 50/50s discharge surprisingly well.  In the mega close up you can see some of that 'melting' Tony refers to going on.  The effect is amplified by the tonal ink of course and wouldn't apply to solid white as much but it still happens on white prints, I'll try to find a pic of the last white print we ran through 225 S with 55lpi tones. The only thing a higher tpi would get ya is some more of those lower % dots (if they are, in fact, needed) in most of these cases.

BTW, why the hell is it so hard to take a good pic of a printed shirt?  They never seem to look right. 

[mk162]

zoo, I usually just run a plastisol white that is based down.  I work with levels depending on what I am looking for, I go around 60% white/ 40% base.  That seems to work well.

Less finicky than trying to run discharge and ending up with a specific color. 

I do this trick a lot with colors as well.  One of my favorite prints has columbia blue based way down on a navy shirt.  really looks nice.

[ZooCity]

zoo, I usually just run a plastisol white that is based down.  I work with levels depending on what I am looking for, I go around 60% white/ 40% base.  That seems to work well.

Less finicky than trying to run discharge and ending up with a specific color. 

I do this trick a lot with colors as well.  One of my favorite prints has columbia blue based way down on a navy shirt.  really looks nice.

Used to do the same but man, the hand on these is unreal and the print will look better for longer.  And, you don't get the dot 'melting' with plastisol. 

It would also be as much or maybe more challenging to get the vivid minty-blue with plastisol. It's really no more work to mix up the discharge and test out than it is the plastisol.  Theres the activating step but that ain't bad.  My printer prefers plastisol generally though.

[tonypep]

Heres a fun one. On Eternal Apparel sheer. The burlesque girl is three colors and the type is on separate plates. Notice how white the white is. Added a slurry spray for effect.