Moving away from aerosol sprays

[JayzTeez]

This has probably been discussed before but i couldn't find it. i am currently using the Camie Flash Cure Spray Adhesive #375 , and Camie Screen Opener Spray # 480, as well as the C-60 when i happen to get ink where i don't want it.   my question is what is out there that is as good or better than these but less toxic and hopefully as cheap or cheaper than these products.    also i do notice i have been having trouble reclaiming certain screens is this due to cleaning them with paint thinner and the screen opener?

[screenxpress]

Yea, I think you want to move away from the paint thinner.

For difficult images at reclaim time, I use a product named RENUIT by CCI from Graphic Solutions.  Strong stuff, burns if you get it on you but works well.  Only leave it on screen about 1-2 minutes before pressure wash out.  Least it's not aerosol.

[Northland]

Ditch the paint thinner.... rags with thinner are a fire hazard & there are health concerns.

Try a liquid pallet adhesive (I like Xenon Xentack) -or- use a pallet tape.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Xenon-Screen-Printing-Xentack-Pallet-Adhesive-/180275235998?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item29f93dcc9e

[Frog]

The Flash Cure Adhesive has been replaced in most shops by the  brush on, card on.roll on, or even spray on water based adhesives that look like white glue. There are a whole slew of 'em out there. I use Tekbond TB-HV They actually get more aggressive with flashing, but are still not perfect for many on fleece.

And Wayne, The Liquid Renuit I use suggests 3-30 minutes dwell time. It might burn your skin, but it is no problem on the screen at those times. Nothing like the old base based paste haze removers like the Godzilla of haze removers, Autohaze . That stuff could eat a screen in ten minutes.

[screenxpress]

I try to get if off within 2-3 mins, but let it on a bit longer one time and the screen ripped during pressure wash so figured it did have an 'eating' effect.  I'm going to look into some kind of dip tank.

I had read the post thinking Camie Flash Cure Spray Adhesive #375 was for screen repair or something.  I use TexTac for pallet adhesive now and love it.

[tpitman]

You've got to water down the Tex-Tac significantly if you want to get that shirt off the platen. I put it in an old squeeze mustard bottle and cut it almost 50%. Lasts seemingly forever.

[Denis Kolar]

http://www.techsupportsps.com/store/supplies/aerosols-adhesives/tekmar/tekmar-tbhv-water-based-adhesive.html


Love it!
It gets to be STICKY at the start, but after 30-40 shirts is a BOMB

[Printficient]

This has probably been discussed before but i couldn't find it. i am currently using the Camie Flash Cure Spray Adhesive #375 , and Camie Screen Opener Spray # 480, as well as the C-60 when i happen to get ink where i don't want it.   my question is what is out there that is as good or better than these but less toxic and hopefully as cheap or cheaper than these products.    also i do notice i have been having trouble reclaiming certain screens is this due to cleaning them with paint thinner and the screen opener?

Xenon Xentack
Xenon Xenpac
Xenon Plastiwash

[shellyky]

I also use textac watered down a little...moving from aerosol adhesive was the best thing i ever did. My lungs, skin and all inanimate objects in the room, thank me. My first attempt at using it on our manual didn't go so well though--took the pallet rubber right off the presss LOL  needless to say i put the bottle back on the shelf and used spray for another 2-3 years before giving it another shot...watering it down and thinly applying it is the key.

[blue moon]

you'll find that consensus is to ditch the spray adhesive and go with waterbased for the plattens. As with anything else, use manufacturer's recommendations and figure in a learning curve.

We use TexTac and used to water it down a lot, but are going away from that. Use a credit card or something similar and apply it very thin (as per manufacturer's instructions). Try one platten first. It helps if you put a scrap shirt on first to take away some stickiness. What ever they say bout the quantity to put on, stick with it. The glue will build up on itself as you spread it and if you put down to much it is almost like superglue (see Shelly's post).

We used to use Easyway 120 to do on press color changes until we talked to the manufacturer's rep and he said that 482 is a much better choice. Point here is, if you like a certain manufacturer, reach out and get the info from the horse's mouth rather than your sales rep.

[Fresh Baked Printing]

Double side tape sheets. Lasts for about 3k prints. Aerosol gets everywhere and makes the press look like it's covered in cobwebs.

[Denis Kolar]

Thanks to Mooseman we have a video of how to clean lint from a pallet when Tackbond is used.
BTW, Mooseman, welcome to the board

DSCF7847

[Frog]

Double side tape sheets. Lasts for about 3k prints. Aerosol gets everywhere and makes the press look like it's covered in cobwebs.

If you have to spray, make a mask out of cardboard. I have them in a few common sizes.

[Fresh Baked Printing]

That's a good idea. Great tip!

[Northland]

I find a big difference between water based adhesives.

I've got some TexTac (cut 50/50 with water)... that I like for fleece. But man.... it's really hard to strip off the pallet when cleaning. Water won't touch it, I need a strong press wash like CCI RC-5 to get it off.

I prefer Xenon XenTack for tees..... it holds thin cotton well and clean up is much easier than the TexTac (IMHO).

Well done Mooseman.... gunna get me a big brush too !  AND, maybe some Mean Green.