Stencil Remover

[Gilligan]

Now I'm curious if there are suppliers shipping it standard--I know the stuff from performance does, and the ICC rep gave me some samples last month and mentioned they come hazmat as well, perhaps some suppliers are not?

Back when I used ER-80, it was 20% or so periodic acid, and it was the strongest stuff I could get without weird shipping... but it could have been because of local delivery.

ER-80? is that stronger than ER-35?

45 more so!

[Frog]

ER-35 is 1:4
ER-80 is 1:20/30. so not quite.

[Screened Gear]

ER-35 is 1:4
ER-80 is 1:20/30. so not quite.

Is it really that much stronger? wow I bought the rong stuff. I have 5 gallons of gr-35 here. I have a dip tank on order and I am not sure if i am going to use the Dip and Strip that it comes with or just use just Gr-35.

[Frog]

that 1:20/30 is the typical strong stuff that I have seen. First I saw when I started my shop was from Autotype, A pint lasted me a long time! Then I saw that everyone had something like it. Last I got was from Kiwo.
Check pricing, figure in shipping especially, and it's usually the better deal. If you have to pay for shipping water, you want as little as possible.

[Screened Gear]

good info. Thanks Frog.

[Nick Bane]

ER-35 is 1:4
ER-80 is 1:20/30. so not quite.

Is it really that much stronger? wow I bought the rong stuff. I have 5 gallons of gr-35 here. I have a dip tank on order and I am not sure if i am going to use the Dip and Strip that it comes with or just use just Gr-35.

I use the Dip n Strip in my dip tank, i like it personally.  just scrape ink from screens, pull tape and they are ready to dip.  cpl minutes in the tank and the ink and emulsion blow right out, good stuff.  3 gallons in about 30gal of water.

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

I wish someone would convince me a dip tank is the way to go with Newmans. But that is off topic to this thread.


I have both statics and roller frames and I'm still using spray bottles. CCI Gemzyme...which works fine, I guess. I like the idea of the pure powder though. Especially if I went to a dip tank system.

[Nick Bane]

I use my newmans in the dip tank, no problems ive noticed.

[jsheridan]

I wish someone would convince me a dip tank is the way to go with Newmans. But that is off topic to this thread.

Let me guess.. you think they'll leak because you heard some guy said his leaked once.

unless your frames are the first gen's with the black nylon end caps.. get a dip tank!

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

Well, partly. The used ones I bought were SUCH a mess....from caked-on emulsion, super hardened from poor management and partial reclaiming, but also because many if them had leaked and corroded the insides. (They are not first generation frames, by the way.) Aluminum doesn't rust, of course, and the oxides that did form weren't of any concern at all. But they most assuredly HAD in fact, leaked. Several of them....

You surely will wonder how I KNEW they had leaked. Well, because they were crushed and dented so severely, I had to take them apart to straighten them...a Craigslist boo-boo, and a story for another day. I pulled the end caps with a dent puller, and "spooned" out the dents. Sheesh.

But mostly my hesitation is sediment build-up in the grooves, under the tape, mucking up the re-meshing process, and dripping out at in-opportune moments from frames not completely ready to recoat. If that is not a concern, I'm more interested.

Oh, and did I mention I've never tried a dip tank at all, even for my statics? It does intrigue me though.

The powdery mess inside the tubes is a non-event, and nobody.....but NOBODY(!) should ever have a reason to know its there, much less see it. (Nobody normal, that is.) But I guarantee, those tubes are NOT hermetically sealed on my MZX's....no, no, no!

The newer ones, at least the M-3's I've seen can be said to have a "blind" hole to accept the assembly bolts. I'm guessing an arrangement like an "acorn" nut sealed in the end-casting would approximate current spec. Those probably CAN'T leak.

Back to the topic, does the one step ink degradent/emulsion remover really pass muster?? And if not, does it require TWO tanks?

[mooseman]

I often wonder why some manufacturers sit on their hands when they have a good product that could be made even better with a couple of simple mods.
Specifically on the Newmans if they were my product and I was aware of the comments here i would sell the hell out of the following features especially with the onset of other retens on the market.

The bolt hole for example is in an end cap that is cast from a pettern. If the casting is not longenough to have a blind hole the patterns could easily be modified by simply adding on a extension to the patterns to add material on the inner end when cast. It would not even have to be pretty and not much more that a 1/4 or 3/8 addition in length adding virtually no cost in material.

On the tubes leaking at the joint of the tube and end caps a simple cheap o-ring added to the end cap would solve that problem.
the end caps are most likely bonded to the tubes with a thermally set adhesive that the manufacturer assumes would seal out liquid also.
a simple oring groove in the end cap would not add hardley anything to the manufacturing process especially on automated machinery.
Synthetic rubber o-rings in painfully low numbers are dirt cheap, literally 3 or 4 cents each in the size required.

 If i owned stretching devices i would supply, (for a price) a hand held tool that screen junkies like me could use to slide up and down in the locking strip slot to clean out all the emulsion and other gook that builds up in there. Oddly enough it would look alot like the modified profile of a locking strip on a Sure Lock run up and down to chip / chase the gunk out.


Now my personal favorite.... Locking strips , i think i will sit on this one for a while

mooseman

[Gilligan]

Speaking of those channels.

I have some M3's that I bought used and they were in pretty good condition, the frames were clean... but the mesh was not taken care of very well.  It seems like gunk has built up in the channels, under the strips and mesh and such.  This makes pulling the strips/screens kind of hard and if not careful they will bind up and be almost impossible to get out.  Once removed all the gunk pretty much falls out (though I wouldn't mind a tool to help clean it out like Moose was talking about.)

My question is, what is the best way to breakdown all that gunk buried in that channel to make strip removal easier?

[jasonl]

flat head screwdriver!  thats what i use.

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

Moose, if you have some newer M3's that need re-meshed, pull a bolt completely out and see of the holes are blind. (I think they are.) I only have MZX's and the specific generation I have have a hex recess machines into the casting, to which is placed a 7/16 NC Stainless Steel Hex Nut. So those threads are much "harder" than just aluminum threads, tapped in a blind hole would be. The nut could be replaced with a "closed ended" nut...like an acorn nut....thus no leakage.

And the end caps are epoxied in. I used a propane torch to warm the epoxy before disassembly. The fit is a few thousands sloppy, to allow room for the epoxy. Pretty slick, and no leakage is possible on a properly epoxied assembly. Oh and quite strong, and VERY ridgid. A modern M3 is a fairly mature product from in engineering parlance. I used Geougeon Brothers G-Flex to re-assemble mine. it is marketed under the West Systems brand as a boat building epoxy.

Giligan, I bought a jumbo eyedropper from a Science Supply Store in Wichita, and dribble Goof Off onto the channels and let it sit for 2 or 3 minutes. a little "push/pull" with a needle nose pliers has always broken loose the licking strips. Franmar has something which I believe is called Stripee Doo. (Edit: Nope. it is called Ickee Stickee Unstuck. sorry....) It doesn't dry out as bad as Goof Off, and might be a better choice. I've even used both, in sort of a one/two punch arrangement. Like I said my frames were beyond horrible.

Sheesh, I hope nobody has to do what I did. But if you do, ping me off line, and I'll walk you through it.

[Gilligan]

Giligan, I bought a jumbo eyedropper from a Science Supply Store in Wichita, and dribble Goof Off onto the channels and let it sit for 2 or 3 minutes. a little "push/pull" with a needle nose pliers has always broken loose the licking strips. Franmar has something which I believe is called Stripee Doo. I'd doesn't dry out as bad as Goof Off, and might be a better choice. I've even used both, in sort of a one/two punch arrangement. Like I said my frames were beyond horrible.

Sheesh, I hope nobody has to do what I did. But if you do, ping me off line, and I'll walk you through it.

I'm about to place an order with those techsupportsps guys and was planning on getting some ickee stickie unstuck and maybe something else from the franmar line.  Might need some stripee doo.