Artwork change for auto.

[inkstain]

Hi guys.
Next week my new 8/7 diamondback s comes in. Following week tech comes to install.
I've heard a few talk about how artwork changes when going to auto.
Can you guys give me some tips/instructions please?

I print with plastisol.
On light shirts, do you just setup artwork butt/butt.
How about darks?  Still trap the underbase a little? Then butt/butt the rest of the colors?
Only got one flash, so maybe some jobs gonna have to learn and use revolver.

I've never printed on an automatic.
Just wanna be as best prepared for the transition and that's why I ask you guys (the experienced).
Thanks so much and appreciate you guys/this site!

[rmonks]

I don't think I would change my artwork a whole lot right off the bat, but you will find you can start reducing the amount of overprint you have been using, I think that screen tension is something that you will need to pay closer attention to on an auto without good tension you will not be able to reduce the overprint.

[jasonl]

get ready for a better EVERYTHING!  Your life is about to change for the better.  You will be wondering why you didnt do this sooner.  You will learn as you go what your new capabilities will be.  Good luck.

[whitewater]

I just started using my auto this last week...for me getting the flash correct on first run..Sam from Palomar helped with the revolver..I did a 5 color on white for the test with the tech and is was butt reg and held nice and tight.

It is sweet not having to pull or push the squeegee!

[Scobey Peterman]

You might need to go to a higher mesh count then with a manuel press.  So 110 need to be on 150 and 150 on 200.

Having two flashes is good to have for multi-color jobs.  It is something you might want to get down the road.

Good luck

[Zelko-4-EVA]

Only got one flash, so maybe some jobs gonna have to learn and use revolver.

we only use one flash per press. 

99 percent of our shirts are black, and 75 percent are sim process.  white underlay, flash and then the rest of the colors on top.

like others said - proper mesh selection and tension is important.  most of our sim process are 196-305.  very rarely we use anything below 196.

[RICK STEFANICK]

anything on white or with no underbase butt registration is what you need. NEVER trap another separation again. as far as underbases that will depend on your squeeguies, screen tention etc. my artist does a little choke but the finished product its un-noticable. like a 1/4 point all the way around?

[inkstain]

You might need to go to a higher mesh count then with a manuel press.  So 110 need to be on 150 and 150 on 200.

Having two flashes is good to have for multi-color jobs.  It is something you might want to get down the road.

Good luck

I have Newman 23x31 M3's.  For underbase, should I use a 166?  Then the top layers 205?
 Also, have my tension at 35N.  Is this good enough?
Thanks for the advice.

[bimmridder]

It sounds like you have what you need to take your work to the next level. I think my biggest piece of advice would be, only make one change at a time. Don't change your art, your tensions, your mesh count all at the same time. If you have problems, you'll chase your tail trouble shooting. Slow and steady, step by step. 

[inkstain]

It sounds like you have what you need to take your work to the next level. I think my biggest piece of advice would be, only make one change at a time. Don't change your art, your tensions, your mesh count all at the same time. If you have problems, you'll chase your tail trouble shooting. Slow and steady, step by step.

Thanks! That is good advice!

[Shanarchy]

The best advice I was given was from the gentleman I bought my auto from. "All it is is a machine to do what you were already doing. Don't over think it, just set it up to do it the way you are doing it".

I found it a lot easier when I set it up to emulate what I was doing manually. Once you get adjusted, experiment with higher mesh counts, etc. But like Bim said, only make one change at a time.

Also, I think anywhere between 30-35 is perfect for your screens. I feel that when you start going over 35 your screen loses any forgiveness factor if any of the other variables are not dead on.

A lot of the more experienced people on here will have some great feedback for you.

Good luck!

[bimmridder]

I feel just the opposite about emulating a manual to run the auto. If I had my choice, a new printer would learn how to print on the auto, then move up to the manual. On an auto, you can't cheat. You can't pull your squeegee at an angle to keep a job in register.  You can't do multiple strokes with different angles. You either get it right or you have it wrong. Take that knowledge from the auto and go to the manual. I do agree tolerances, mesh counts, tensions, etc can improve, but not the technique. I know most will disagree, but really think about it? Then again, I'm a bit weird and twisted so what I say should often be taken with a grain of salt.

[Inkworks]

Printing on a manual will help you understand the relationship between on press changes and their effect. You just have to take those changes with you when you go to the Auto.

Autos are much less forgiving for mistakes with traps, mesh counts, flashing, WOW etc.

I find process and simulated process/index colour printing is much more forgiving to less flashing than spot colour is. If you do a ton of process/index colour printing you'll probably be fien with 1 flash. if you do a ton of multi-colour spot then you'll eventually want at least 2 flashes.