discharge underbase-top colors washing off

[Rockers]

Clear with some white, but I might have added too much white.

[Doug S]

170C = 338F

Right on.
274F=134 C= totally under cured.
But as I have said they went through at 338F for 2 minutes.

Sorry, Google search done it to me. On the temp info.

[Inkworks]

[hijack]Awesome, free conversion program for almost any units that I've installed on almost every computer I use.[/hijack]

[Rockers]

170C = 338F

Right on.
274F=134 C= totally under cured.
But as I have said they went through at 338F for 2 minutes.

Sorry, Google search done it to me. On the temp info.

What sort of emulsion do you use for your discharge work? We used to use Sericol 916 but i will now change to Ulano QT discharge.

[Doug S]

I used Ryonet WBP Hybrid emulsion.  It doesn't seem to have the solids of some others I've used.  For this job, I coated 2/1 so there wasn't alot of EOM.  I always post expose for discharge and use harden x.  With the Harden x, I've had it hold up for a 900 piece job.

[Rockers]

I used Ryonet WBP Hybrid emulsion.  It doesn't seem to have the solids of some others I've used.  For this job, I coated 2/1 so there wasn't alot of EOM.  I always post expose for discharge and use harden x.  With the Harden x, I've had it hold up for a 900 piece job.

Got a pot of WBP here but no harden x. Does adding the harden x make it a lot harder to reclaim the screen?

[jsheridan]

Answer.. the plastisol wasn't cured completely. Needs to stay in the heat longer or you need to flash the base before the colors.

When using a waterbase underbase and plastisol colors, the underbase cures first by steaming off the water, only then will the plastisol start to cure. This plastisol under-cure tends to happen more when people do a true WOW print with no flashing of the discharge base first. If you flash the base until you can start to barely see the design on the shirt, then print your colors, you'll find the shirt won't need to stay in the dryer so long.

[jasonl]

Answer.. the plastisol wasn't cured completely. Needs to stay in the heat longer or you need to flash the base before the colors.

When using a waterbase underbase and plastisol colors, the underbase cures first by steaming off the water, only then will the plastisol start to cure. This plastisol under-cure tends to happen more when people do a true WOW print with no flashing of the discharge base first. If you flash the base until you can start to barely see the design on the shirt, then print your colors, you'll find the shirt won't need to stay in the dryer so long.

agreed 100% and it prints easier with the flash IMO.

[Doug S]

I used Ryonet WBP Hybrid emulsion.  It doesn't seem to have the solids of some others I've used.  For this job, I coated 2/1 so there wasn't alot of EOM.  I always post expose for discharge and use harden x.  With the Harden x, I've had it hold up for a 900 piece job.

Got a pot of WBP here but no harden x. Does adding the harden x make it a lot harder to reclaim the screen?

Slightly harder to reclaim with the harden x but not too bad.   If I've used harden x, I'll leave them in the dip tank for around 3 minutes longer then the screens without.  By the way, I won't use the harden x for 100 pc jobs or less.  The only reason I purchased a hardener was because I had a 5 color straight discharge job start breaking down on me at around 150 pieces.  They may have lasted longer but I didn't post expose that job so I can't blame the emulsion.  I was new to discharge and taught myself a painful but valuable lesson.

[alan802]

I used CCI D White as my underbase, no mixture, straight white, no flash on a few and flashed a few, then red plastisol on top.  Even before I washed it I knew it wasn't going to work.  It was very brittle and flakey, the prints without the top red were fine, it was just the combination of the discharge white and plastisol that didn't mix well.   I haven't cut it down to an 80/20 mix yet but maybe when things slow down a bit I can experiment. 

So there are a few here that have gotten good results with straight discharge white and plastisol on top but more of us that it didn't work right?  I've never had problems with discharge base, no pigment, as an UB and plastisol on top. 

[Homer]

for a white base using discharge white only -we needed to flash then we are ok to run anything on top, plastisol or Wb.

For a discharge base, no flash, WOW plastisol, we needed to do an 80/20 mix. this combo works great for us, so far.