First "large" multicolor job (5 colors) on white.

[Shawn (EIP)]

Umm... PC61's

Would a jig made out of corolplast work?

If your not flashing yes other wise no.

[Shawn (EIP)]

If your using wooden plattens hack em up and make new ones later?

[Dottonedan]

1 Yellow
2 Green
3 Red
4 Blue
5 Black

Dan can you explain your order? why that order.

Here is my theory on this print order.
 
 1st,  the Yellow is not only the lightest color, but such that if picked up from the subsequent screens, it won't show all that much due to it's luminescence against the white Ya dig?.
 
 2, Having the other colors run over this yellow, does pick up some and should remove the excess yellow that might smear with the blue.
 
 3, In ALL cases when yellow is very close to blue, (except for actually attempting to create a green), we have always tried to keep the blue and green as fer away from each other as they do not play well together. If they kiss, you got trouble. Having them last and printing one right after the other, causes some boogering where as if'n the yellow is up front, it gets it's smear factor taken away.
 
 As a side note, I'd try to get away with changing that yellow to a gold. Like a 115 or 122 Something with some more red in it. That lemon yellow gets lost against the white.

[Gilligan]

These colors are not our pantone corrected colors... I'm using Union Golden Yellow (they wife just creates, she doesn't care what colors I have on the shelf.   )

My only issue with running the blue and yellow "first" is because the strokes beyond that would have to go the entire length of the print or it would make odd lines where I start the squeegee for say black or green... I am on a manual.

[JBLUE]

I would print it as Dan said. Except I would get rid of the yellow outline around the ribbon and change it to black. I know your on a manual but I would flash it on the auto between the yellow and blue. They will mix eventually and you will get some green where they touch. Use good tight screens and this should be a piece of cake.

[ScreenFoo]

I'd go with Masonite (or some other generic hardboard,)  it's still cheap as hell, very flat, and will hold up well for many years if you don't get it wet.  You also won't get corrugated patterns with it if you print a light ink on a darker shirt. 

[Gilligan]

I'd go with Masonite (or some other generic hardboard,)  it's still cheap as hell, very flat, and will hold up well for many years if you don't get it wet.  You also won't get corrugated patterns with it if you print a light ink on a darker shirt. 

Hmm... given more time I'd probably do that.  I like it!

For this I have to just get it done and get it done TODAY... luckily it's white shirts and I'll obviously put the flutes running front to back and use low pressure.  This will be basically a throw away jig just to get the job done.  Sadly I bought some white panel board just day before yesterday to make a large 7 x 4 white board for the wall.  I could have picked up just what I needed if I'd have only known I needed it that day. LOL

[Frog]

I use a lot of PVC foam, (placemats from Target) to make specialized board rubbers.
People with the big bucks and willingness to spend them (like you, Gilly lol), may want to invest in some neoprene or buna nitrile, to have around for this for its added durability.

[alan802]

standard on whites is lightest to darkest and smallest to largest ink area.

 So in this design I would do.

Small area
green
red
black

larger area
blue
yellow (I like to print strokes of an area after the fill)

THIS

When it comes to wow, smallest to largest works when other things don't.  I don't much worry about lightest to darkest anymore, I used to but realized small to large works better for wow.  I wouldn't do any choking or trapping and you're press will hold everything in registration so if you get mixing of inks then you're out of reg.  If you don't mind flashing, print however you want, but you shouldn't have to flash anything on a white shirt.  If you are using super opaque inks then you'll either have to flash if you print the yellow and blue first or risk having to stop and clean screens.  If you're using good wow inks then you can probably print it whatever order you want without flashing.

[Shanarchy]

My two thoughts:

Not sure if coroplast will be the best to print over. I would even consider cuttting a cardboard box insteadA smoother surface would probably work much better.

Don't be afraid to flash. You shouldn't have to. But if there is an area that seems to overlap another color a hair or a certain color ink that does not work well with WOW, throw a flash in. Also, if you print it how Shawn mentioned, you can print one portion, flash, than hit the other to avoid the squeegee patterns in the ink.

[Gilligan]

Well, printing manually so flashing will slow production down a bit and we are under the gun so I'm REALLY hoping to avoid having to lean on that.

Going down the flutes and not across them should avoid issues with the coroplast, I tried some cardboard and it didn't hold my textac very well.  This will also be on white and those inks are pretty runny so it should go through with little pressure hoping to not deflect the coroplast much.

Alan, it SHOULD hold good registration but you know my screens are junk because I waste too much time on here vs stretching up my rollers.   Sadly I'm not even using the MZX or M3 on this job since 2 fantastic screens would gain much.  I might be totally wrong on that... but we are rolling with it.  BTW, we still suck at coating screens but that is due to us not having a good scoop coater, I looked at a buddy's and it's perfectly flat (he has two).  So I'm gonna get another one when I order my, wait for it.... SECOND gallon of emulsion!  Woot!  BING BING BING <streamers and confetti everywhere> we ALMOST have gone through a gallon of emulsion. LOL  So NEXT job maybe. LOL

[Shanarchy]

BTW, we still suck at coating screens

I'm a big fan of capillary film. Ulano EZ films work real nice and have a good price point ($1.47/sheet).

[alan802]

BTW, we still suck at coating screens

I'm a big fan of capillary film. Ulano EZ films work real nice and have a good price point ($1.47/sheet).

Damn, is it that cheap per sheet now?  What size sheet are that cheap?  We have some screens with $1.50 worth of direct emulsion on them so cap film at that price would be a time saver.  I like cap film but they weren't close in price back when I was looking into it, might have to revisit this.

[Shanarchy]

BTW, we still suck at coating screens

I'm a big fan of capillary film. Ulano EZ films work real nice and have a good price point ($1.47/sheet).

Damn, is it that cheap per sheet now?  What size sheet are that cheap?  We have some screens with $1.50 worth of direct emulsion on them so cap film at that price would be a time saver.  I like cap film but they weren't close in price back when I was looking into it, might have to revisit this.

Ulano EZ film
15x17 at $1.47/ea
17x24 at $2.10/ea

I believe it is 48 micron. They also have a 30 micron available. I love the fact that as soon as my screens are reclaimed they are immediately re-coated. Plus it only takes me a couple of minutes to teach my part timer how to coat a perfect screen.

[Gilligan]

Yeah I forgot about the ez films, not a bad price at all, but we just have to get better.

Just pulled screens to try and find two decent ones for the full part of the design and barely have that.... And.... They are still wet in the middle!!! We coated them 24 hours ago and had a fan running on the stack for about 6 hours, then covered then for the night. Now I have a fan blasting on them so I can get started!!