One Hit White -- the Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

[ScreenPrinter123]

So, here's the one hit white on red (which I find the to be the hardest shirt to get that opaque -- what I called "sealed" -- look).  This is with a 65/95/65 murakami triple durometer; 155 s mesh; about 15 on the pressure readout; 5/5 coating with rounded edge with chromablue; using rutland's max opaque white. The single prints and the print-prints are denoted in the file name.  It has "lift" to it, but still leaves that "splotchy" look that always mutes out top layer prints because of the color of the shirt coming through -- bah!

"You have been weighed; you have been measured; and you have been found wanting." - Count Adhemar


The good news is that nobody says I can't go for a 10/10 coating.

It looks like I'll have to post the rest of the pics in a separate "response".

[ScreenPrinter123]

Rest of the pics

[Screened Gear]

I was waiting to see this. I know we talked about this but I never thought it would look that bad. The stencil you made was super thick and the print came out not much better than a standard screen. How many did you print? Was Ink worked up? Did the screen clear?

[Frog]

One factor of achieving this "Holy Grail" of screen printing is the design itself. As mentioned before, big broad areas of solid coverage are not the ideal candidate, though I'll tell you that in the old days, it was not unheard of to do athletic prints on a manual without a flash, by doing a second hit by sort of finessing the ink out of the flooded (filled) screen with a really light touch rather than a real print stroke.

[ebscreen]

I'm not familiar with Rutland's Max-Opaque (aren't we stepping on Union's toes here, or are they the same co. now?)
but you want the thickest heaviest white you can find for attempting this sort of thing. From the looks
of your stencil an HD white might fit the bill. Some poly whites might work as well.

Like Alan has said, 1 hit white is largely art dependent. When it works it works, but don't go trying
to force it if it ain't right. Long haired Texans (contradiction in terms?) will have you believe otherwise,
but then I, and nobody I know, have seen a closeup of the final product.

Also, I've heard the "wide open design" problem described as a rope/wood bridge across a chasm.
The sides on the chasm (your stencil profile) are your supports, and short of stainless steel planks/rope
(super high tension mesh) you will have sag in the middle no matter what.

[Screened Gear]

Anyone can do a one hit print. Its really depends on what your level of quality is.

[jasonl]

wouldnt fly at my shop.

[ScreenPrinter123]

I was waiting to see this. I know we talked about this but I never thought it would look that bad. The stencil you made was super thick and the print came out not much better than a standard screen. How many did you print? Was Ink worked up? Did the screen clear?

Printed about 5 shirts; didn't heat pallets, etc. Just did it enough to just be getting the ink to clear on first pass.  Some of us just don't have your talent - let's see the magic on your end .

[alan802]

Here's one I did on the manual the other day through a 135/48, coated 3/3 with saati phw red.


A little closer but a bad iphone pic

[alan802]

Here's a print flash print through a 180-S on the back of that same shirt done on the auto.

[Binkspot]

7/7, that's basically two screens coated 3/1 that could be PFP. At what point is there too much stencil for the ink to shear or release from the screen. IMO if the ink is too thick when the pallet drops some of the ink will stick to the screen and pull away from the garment leaving a rough finish. Also how hard or stiff is the image, will it be like wearing a rain coat?

[Screened Gear]

I was waiting to see this. I know we talked about this but I never thought it would look that bad. The stencil you made was super thick and the print came out not much better than a standard screen. How many did you print? Was Ink worked up? Did the screen clear?

Some of us just don't have your talent - let's see the magic on your end .

I have never done a one hit white like you did. I know what your trying is very hard. I would not say I have special talents at printing shirts. Most of the time lately I have been running around just trying to get things to work so I can get the jobs out the door. If talent is trying everything you can to get something to work then I am very talented and tired. I guess just knowing what to try to fix a problem is why a lot of use come on here. I know I have learned a lot from you guys.

[ScreenPrinter123]

Here's one I did on the manual the other day through a 135/48, coated 3/3 with saati phw red.


A little closer but a bad iphone pic

Oh, ok, I see how it is -- Johnny Raincloud is changing it up going manual with a thick stencil one hit white.  I'm gonna slap my screen up on my manual monday and send the results -- finessing that second stroke -- haven't mastered that on the auto yet (though I don't know if it's possible unless you can program your auto to hit the first pass hard to lay the fibers down and then pass the second stroke with an uber soft print for the second pass to finesse that top print).

CHEATER!

 

[ScreenPrinter123]

I was waiting to see this. I know we talked about this but I never thought it would look that bad. The stencil you made was super thick and the print came out not much better than a standard screen. How many did you print? Was Ink worked up? Did the screen clear?

Some of us just don't have your talent - let's see the magic on your end .

I have never done a one hit white like you did. I know what your trying is very hard. I would not say I have special talents at printing shirts. Most of the time lately I have been running around just trying to get things to work so I can get the jobs out the door. If talent is trying everything you can to get something to work then I am very talented and tired. I guess just knowing what to try to fix a problem is why a lot of use come on here. I know I have learned a lot from you guys.

I didn't mean the "show us your magic" as any kind've jab -- I seriously meant for you to post some pictures of a 1/1 or a 2/2 coat on 150 mesh or thereabouts - white print - on a red shirt. I'd also like to see some people post some prints that use a one hit underbase (in the 230, 180, and 150 range) with a 1/1 or 2/2 coat using a 310 or 230 top coat mesh -- I want to see how opaque you are getting your top colors.  I'm usually quite frustrated with mine.  I was pushing Union's max opaque lemon yellow through a 310 two days ago as a top coat and was not super satisfied -- but am still amazed how such ink whistles through such a high mesh count.

[ScreenPrinter123]

Here's a print flash print through a 180-S on the back of that same shirt done on the auto.

Alan, what kind've coating and emulsion were you using?  Were you going around twice -- if so, were you adjusting the second print after the flash to use less pressure?