Ready to put frames to work, but have questions....

[Denis Kolar]

I'm ready to put my Newmans to work, but have questions about protecting the mesh.
What do you use to protect the mesh? Do you use tape, and if you do which one?
How do you apply the tape? Are there any tricks to it?

Does anyone use mesh protectors? That seems an overkill, and expensive one too.

I was kind of excited when I stretched some mesh last night. 3-4 minutes and I had mesh @32 N/cm. Can not wait to try to print with them tomorrow.
Using eCon panels and the one on the picture is 230.

Any input is appreciated.

Thanks

[alan802]

Polyken 221 chemical resistant tape, 2".  I can take some pics on how we tape them so give me a few minutes to get those uploaded.

[alan802]

[brandon]

So on our rollers after hitting the correct tension the first time we used to use their (newman's) tape right away. We are now trying normal duct tape for the first round of printing. The reason why is cost. After a couple of weeks we retension them, print again for x amount of time, and then retension again. When we get that comfortable "work hardened" screen we then use the $pendy tape. Just seems everytime we retension the tape comes off. I would love some suggestions on this. Mt brain hurts and it is not even Friday yet!

[ZooCity]

We use Newman Yellow tape.  Double layer on all screens.  (we use all thin-thread mesh, it's a little delicate)

I like the yeller tape b/c it pulls off clean and easy.  I figure I'd rather pay more for the tape and less for the labor to pick and clean and scrub to prep the frame again. 

I'll try to upload a pic when I get back to the printshop. 

One note:  I cut the loose corners off the mesh.  Those floppy ends tend to get snagged on things like our side clamps.  Bill Hood would probably wag a finger at this practice but we've had zero issues with doing it. 

You'll probably want to put some serious protection on the square bar of yours.  I think they make a protector piece for that?

[ebscreen]

Just started trying the Polyken 221 today, 2". Actually the AWT equivalent which seem thicker.
We tape the same way as Alan. We'll see how it goes.

Didn't like the Newman Yellow. R-Tape was our guy for awhile, but I'm imagining this duct tape on steroids
will likely last longer.

[ZooCity]

With the tape, just don't dunk yer screens in hot solvent constantly and it's probably all going to work out nicely.  Actually, don't use hot solvents period, no need for that sort of stuff these days. 

Most of the nightmare frames I've seen with polyken tape, and I've seen some scary ones, had other telltale signs of hot solvent use, like all the paint stripped off the roller and cracked and swollen plastic parts.  I'll bet all the tape made for this works out great.

What didn't you like about the yeller tape eb?

[Binkspot]

We took Mooseman's advise and started using the Gorila tape. Seems to be holding up well even in the dip tank. Because its black I picked up silver sharpies to write mesh size and notes.

[ebscreen]

Yeller tape came off too easy post dip tank/reclaim. No hot solvents here.
And then when I wanted it to actually come off it wouldn't. And when you pulled it
would separate into strips and leave little obnoxious ones on the frame.
I figured if yer dealing with that mess you might as well have the tenacity of
the Polyken.

[ScreenFoo]

I've had great luck with Polyken/AWT stripping in a reasonably clean manner, except for the oldest frames--if you don't pop screens within a year or two, maybe it would be an issue, but a great one to have.  Not dippin' here though.

I posted this on another thread, figured I'd throw in a pic.  I was thinking I'd do this until work hardened, and have a double layer after going over the channels, but rinsing the channels well during reclaim, they stay extremely clean, instead of chemical/emulsion getting trapped under the tape.  I'm only in a year or so playing with the method, so I don't have "long-term " experience to relate.
I'd love to hear any other takes on it, if anyone else has/wants to try it--or even if you just think it's stupid.   I'm easily entertained.   

Rip the standard 2" in half lengthwise, and make sure the round of the channel is covered.  The ends seem to peel up and stick OK after corner softening.

[Denis Kolar]

Thanks guys.
I have a roll or R-Tape that I will try.
So, I should not be taping over the grooves until the mesh is work hardened? Would that tape move together with the frame/mesh when the frame is retensioned?

Also, I'm using eCon panels, would that make any difference? I do not have the mesh flapping around.

BTW, I coated some last night, and I have realized that I have to learn how to coat......again.

Thanks

[Socalfmf]

we tape just like Alan, but we use PAPER Tape...it will last just as long as the mesh....get it just about at any supplier...

sam

[Rockers]

We use Newman Yellow tape.  Double layer on all screens.  (we use all thin-thread mesh, it's a little delicate)

I like the yeller tape b/c it pulls off clean and easy.  I figure I'd rather pay more for the tape and less for the labor to pick and clean and scrub to prep the frame again. 

I'll try to upload a pic when I get back to the printshop. 

One note:  I cut the loose corners off the mesh.  Those floppy ends tend to get snagged on things like our side clamps.  Bill Hood would probably wag a finger at this practice but we've had zero issues with doing it. 

You'll probably want to put some serious protection on the square bar of yours.  I think they make a protector piece for that?

Bill Hood, a name that hardly gets mentioned here. Is he still teaching everyone how to print an opaque white with one push of  the squeegee.

[Frog]

Bill Hood has retired to old Mexico. Alan has taken over his classes.

As for one hit whites, that subject is currently being discussed right here on the board in threads in both General Screen Printing and Screen Making

[ScreenFoo]

Thanks guys.
I have a roll or R-Tape that I will try.
So, I should not be taping over the grooves until the mesh is work hardened? Would that tape move together with the frame/mesh when the frame is retensioned?

Also, I'm using eCon panels, would that make any difference? I do not have the mesh flapping around.

BTW, I coated some last night, and I have realized that I have to learn how to coat......again.

Thanks

Personally, I try to do a couple reclaim/tension cycles and then tape.  I do not use panels, however.
If you're using panels, you don't soften the corners, they're pre-softened.  You only have to worry about that if you use bolt mesh.  With panels, I wouldn't think you'd have to worry about keeping the channels as clean either, so I'm not sure if my taping method would help you at all.  When you're using bolt mesh, they need to be squeaky clean to soften corners easily.

Don't worry, once you get in the swing of it, coating gets easier with high tension.