Murikami mesh statics?

[Prosperi-Tees]

Does anyone sell static's stretched with smart mesh? I have come to the conclusion that ex frames and Newman rollers are not for us at this time in our current location due to space issues mainly. So I'm searching for the best static frame and heard that the smart mesh, well is a smart way to go if you are going to run static's. Any input?

[Gabe]

ask sonny he`s the screen expert, he can stretch any mesh any frame
wood or aluminum anytime

[alan802]

IF you have to run statics I'd recommend the Murakami Smartmesh S threads.  They really work well under light tension loads and they seem to stabilize much quicker and without losing as much tension as the other mesh that I've stretched.  I'm certainly not saying that they are necessary but if you want to eliminate a variable that can be a royal headache at times, then I'd suggest using the S threads.  White plastisol through a 135/48 with a 100 micron stencil, whooohooo, one hit, nice!!!

[blue moon]

I've purchased some statics with the LX mesh from my supplier (Multicraft in Cleveland) that were supposedly directly from Murakami. They are some of the best done statics I have seen. I don't know if they sell them with any other mesh, but if I was buying statics, I would find the way to buy from who ever made those. See what Murakami says and let us know. . .


pierre

[ScreenPrinter123]

Alan,

With a 2/2 with the round edge with chromablue on the 110 S mesh and a 65/95/65 murakami squeegee, I can't get a one hit white (by that I mean a solid white on a royal, red, or black shirt without that splotchy look of the garment's color on a print with some chunky text).  And that's with 15 pounds of pressure clearing the white ink through the mesh (tried it with both Union's Bright Cotton white and Rutland's Maximum Opaque White).  Show pics next time you have a one hit white so I can confirm my frustration.

-Brian

[IntegrityShirts]

Alan,

With a 2/2 with the round edge with chromablue on the 110 S mesh and a 65/95/65 murakami squeegee, I can't get a one hit white (by that I mean a solid white on a royal, red, or black shirt without that splotchy look of the garment's color on a print with some chunky text).  And that's with 15 pounds of pressure clearing the white ink through the mesh (tried it with both Union's Bright Cotton white and Rutland's Maximum Opaque White).  Show pics next time you have a one hit white so I can confirm my frustration.

-Brian

Try a 2/4 coating method if you can keep it from dripping.  It also depends on the art.  Too much open area and a one hit white is impossible regardless of thread/coating technique.

[Frog]

To me, white is white, and that means not being able to tell the shirt color, even if just a small swatch was cut out, folded over, and displayed.
Between the trend for soft hand, and a concerted effort to push one hit wonder white by a certain ink dealer and operator of a school of screen printing, that standard has, in my opinion, been lowered.

Now, just for the sake of discussion, some folks have been doing one hit whites with 86's for years (Bearwhiz comes to mind). So with an ultra high tensioned 110 with special wide open mesh, it should be do-able with the correct EOM and ink, and design.

[alan802]

Alan,

With a 2/2 with the round edge with chromablue on the 110 S mesh and a 65/95/65 murakami squeegee, I can't get a one hit white (by that I mean a solid white on a royal, red, or black shirt without that splotchy look of the garment's color on a print with some chunky text).  And that's with 15 pounds of pressure clearing the white ink through the mesh (tried it with both Union's Bright Cotton white and Rutland's Maximum Opaque White).  Show pics next time you have a one hit white so I can confirm my frustration.

-Brian

I make prints for our portfolio every time we print something cool and I'll print a few extra and over the course of a month or two I should have enough to send you.  The other day I made an 83 with a very thick stencil and I was printing union ultrasoft bright red on a royal blue shirt with no flash and one stroke.  We were so busy and I was doing it on the manual press to take some pressure off the auto so I didn't make a sample or take pics or anything, but now that we are returning to normal I should have some time to play around and maybe take a video and for sure some pics.

Increase your print speed Brian, you wouldn't believe how big of a difference that can make on the ink's opacity.  I really wish I would have done video the other day with the royal shirt/red ink print, it was the perfect example of how mesh, stencil and print speed can yeild a "one hit" print.

[ScreenPrinter123]

I'll "salivatingly" wait for pics/videos/samples .

Thanks,
Brian

[Printficient]

ask sonny he`s the screen expert, he can stretch any mesh any frame
wood or aluminum anytime

Thanks for the good words.  One caveat though, we use for all intents and purposes Saati Smart Mesh.  I feel that Italian mesh is a better mesh.  Japanese mesh is good as is Swiss but I think Italian is a little better.

[ScreenPrinter123]

I'd be willing to bet that German mesh is the best, if such exists.... just sayin'..

[blue moon]

I'd be willing to bet that German mesh is the best, if such exists.... just sayin'..

Jawohl!

[mk162]

yeah, because the Trabant was such an engineering marvel.

[blue moon]

yeah, because the Trabant was such an engineering marvel.

LOL,

'glad I wasn't drinking anything as it would have been all over the keyboard!

pierre

[Nation03]

I wanted to try out S-Thread so I ordered one from westarsolutions.com. It's a 150-S, about 15-16 newtons. I'd still like to use EZ or Newman frames, but even at that tension it was one of the nicest screens I've printed with. Did a white print on some fleece... never had white print so bright AND flat on hoodies. Awesome mesh. Can't wait to use it at 25-28 newtons.