what is the difference between M&R micros and Anatols?

[Prosperi-Tees]

I heard that the micros are the weak point in M&R only from what I have read. But really never heard why. I have heard Anatols micros are great but again never heard why. So what are the differences and what makes one better than the other.

Oh and how about Browns micros. They advertise it as "direct drive" but again doesn't explain what it is or why its better.

[Get Shirts]

No problem here with m&r micros. 

[beanie357]

Anatol seems to be okie dokie and can see the settings with old fart bifocals.

Now if I just knew what I was doing.

[jasonl]

I own both, and I prefer M&R only because its what I am used to.  The anatols look like a great system, but like I said I am used to the M&R style.  If you need to visually look at something while microing, then the anatol has a more visual aspect, but once your used to the press, I dont look at anything, just do it by feel.

[tpitman]

I've been doing some work on another shop's older Gauntlet, and the micros seem decent to me. The manual recommends making sure the micros are snug before loosening the levers to adjust, but I have to do the same with my Vastex or the springs will pull the printhead up against them as soon as the levers are loosened. The M&Rs don't seem to have an inordinate amount of lash in the threads. Like Jasonl says, it's pretty much a feel, but not hard to acquire.

[Socalfmf]

well if you use tri-loc and good screens you dont need micros....

[jasonl]

well if you use tri-loc and good screens you dont need micros....

pretty much true, but yeah you still need them.

[Donnie]

I depends on what you cut your teeth on. The micros on my Anatol are great.

[Prosperi-Tees]

Well I'm cutting teeth on an old javelin and it takes awhile to register and of course the screen moves when you tighten down the clamps. I am getting ready for a more modern press, I guess anything newer will be better than that.

[inkman996]

Well I'm cutting teeth on an old javelin and it takes awhile to register and of course the screen moves when you tighten down the clamps. I am getting ready for a more modern press, I guess anything newer will be better than that.

If your screens are not dead flat they will still move a little on clamp down tri-loc or not. Trust mi I know

[Prosperi-Tees]

Hey Mike I know your an an old Jav for quite awhile what was your reg procedures?

[inkman996]

Hey Mike I know your an an old Jav for quite awhile what was your reg procedures?

A hammer!

Seriously I would line up by eye as close as possible lock the clamps and if off by a small amount I would tap the screen corners with a hammer.mhell of a lot easier than the micros.

Making sure them screen hangers are absolutely in,plane with each other is vital as well.

[Prosperi-Tees]

Lol I guess I need to get a hammer all I have is a huge rubber mallet.

[Frog]

For years, those of us with presses without any built-in adjustment, referred to our helper as our "fine adjustment tool". The more sophisticated option, and the opposite of your rubber mallet, would be a dead blow hammer.

This brings to mind a scandal from years ago when some contractor was scamming the taxpayers by grossly overcharging for hammers to the military. On the invoice and other paperwork, they were referred to as "manually operated fastener installation devices".

[spotcolorsupply]

The Anatol, RPM, Brown, and I think MHM all use a direct drive system. Basically all of the micros are independent of each other.

On an M&R, Progressive, Tuf, and many manual presses. One of the front/back movements is attached to the left/right movement causing a slight ark when used.

IMHO the direct drive systems are easier to use (and much easier to learn on), but as others have pointed out with experience both systems do the same job.

Sounds to me, your biggest problem now is the manual screen clamps...