Getting ready to print a dry fit tee (poly).

[Dottonedan]

Getting ready to print a dry fit tee (poly).

What is the best thing to get for the inks? Don't we have a Poly additive to just add into regular plastisol inks or do you need to buy a quart or gallon of LB ink?

I have two options of drying/curing the inks without having my dryer set up yet. The two are, a heat setting clam shell type for transfers and also the flash unit. What would be the most efficient option of the two. I know the heat setter will smooth.flatten te print like a transfer. Thats why I would prefer to use the flash but realize that might be more risky for scortching.

What temp should I dry these at without scortching but being able to cure the ink?
 

[JBLUE]

You need a poly ink for 100% not a low bleed. We use Wilflex Poly white and we just tried Rutlands Poly white and I was impressed with it more than the Wilflex. As for curing set that damn dryer up....

[mk162]

yeah, you can flash them and then finish it on the clamshell, i would not try to straight cure it on the clamshell for fear on ink transfer

[sportsshoppe]

what brand r you printing? how many colors? spot colors?

[Gilligan]

Coming round full circle here.

I did the flash cure on some 50/50 hoodies and I just watched it till it started smoking and then pulled them.  Eventually I got it timed and had a decent rhythm going.  From my understanding they loved them and haven't had a problem with them ever (these were for my father-in-law's friend so I would have heard something.)

They were white ink on black hoodies.  Not exactly the same... but it can be done.

[Frog]

If these are indeed dark shirts with a white print, I would not attempt it with either of your "alternative" curing methods, but at the very least, get a poly-specific ink.

If the design allows it, and the run is small enough, as often is the case for me, I'd use cad-cut heat seal given your present set-up. But knowing your typical fancy pants art as the norm, probably a no-go.

As for actual temp, read the tech sheet for your particular ink! Probably around 300

If, however, the shirts are light, and the ink dark, you can probably get away with either cure method. On the transfer press, reduce the pressure to reduce the transfer look, (which I don't get, but seems to worry you)
The only time I see a heat press hurt a print is when there is a lot of reversed out fine detail that fills in from a lot of ink being pressed by a lot of pressure.

[blue moon]

what about adding nylonbond and letting them air cure? I think the risk of bleeding is to high as it is hard to control the flash temps and timing (do you have a temp gun?) and the bleeding can occur two weeks later, so just because they look good now, it does not mean you can run it that way.

Clamshell will give you better control over the temp. If you can keep it low, it should not bleed. Does your heat press have a temp indicator?

As far as inks, the new QCM poly ink (170) beats other inks we've tried so far. The silicone ink though is the way to go hands down. It si brighter and softer. Downside being it requires a catalyst and it is twice the money of the regular inks. And to add to it, it is not readily available!

pierre

[Sbrem]

We've had our best/most consistent results with the Rutland. I agree with the flash first, then finish with the heat press, so don't put it down heavy, to avoid the spread. And get the dryer happening of course so you don't have to worry about it. There are soooooo many other things to worry about

Steve

[Dottonedan]

Thanks all,  I should have mentioned they are a Hanes 4.5oz Deep Royal dry fit.

Good idea to do both.  Any, I just and not a fan of that flat smooth surface that a the pressure provides. Looks plastic like.

This is a 1 color (white) ink.

[Gilligan]

Ouch... that is a bad mix of colors.

[ScreenFoo]

Hey, could be worse, they could be red.   

I'd do the flash-heat press thing myself.  If you have an IR gun, and a decent thermostat on the clamshell you should be able to pretty well nail it. 
Lower temp for longer time=better luck, in my experience with those types of garments, whatever method you use.

[Frog]

and try to keep at least one to wash test and monitor for a week or two for delayed dye migration