screen printing > Ink and Chemicals

low bleed additive? Is there sucha thing or do I have to buy the ink?

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ftembroidery:
I recently used a white poly ink by Rutland (P/F/P) on a bunch of those District Threads Camo Tees from SanMar.  Now admittedly, they are 100% cotton, but they are the camo dye that bleeds like there's no tomorrow.  Even the catalog description says special consideration/handling is required if screen printing.  They came out great and stayed that way for several days, so I turned them over to the customer.

Colin:
lol Frog  ;)  I always play nice.  I went through their MSDS, and thanks to my long term interactions with my chemists, I'm pretty sure I know what's in there.  My advice would be to watch out for possible ghosting and you will probably see a small amount of loft to your final print. 

But yes, as per my post above, you will see an improvement in your bleed resistance, but you will get better results adding it to an ink that already has a minimum of good bleed resistance.  If you need it on poly materials, I would get a poly ink.

tonypep:
BTW can't speak to the District Threads specifically but I'll wager they are not dyed but either rotary or belt printed yard goods that are then cut and sewn. Which means the camo pattern is waterbased ink. And that ink can bleed through like a mother.
Quick sidebar we used to do a s-ton of 101 Dalmation kids goods on cut pieced goods that had been belt printed with waterbased black paw prints. The plastisol overprints usually consisted of a large puppy head shot with a large amount of white in the graphic. Well it was a challenge getting those paws to not bleed through on the puppies face I can tell you. Thats pretty much where the concept of an underbase gray came about but of course we just made our own.
But wait........turns out at some point either the belt printer or ink manufacturer converted some (probably a drum) of waterbased pink into black for the paws. The paws certainly printed black but when overprinted with white plastisol the pink came through in spades no matter what. There were weeks of blame trading and name calling but in the end Disney made the call and had us return something like 10 pallets of merch and made the contractor replace them.
No moral I suppose; just a story to share with your morning coffee.
Happy Friday tp

bimmridder:
If it were me printing this (and that's not saying much), I'd use something like Wilflex UB Gray or Rutland Dyno Gray. I'm sure most ink companies have something similar, I just don't know them all. This stuff stops the worst of the worst bleeders I've come across. It's also much easier to work with than it was a year or two ago.

BorisB:

--- Quote from: Frog on May 12, 2011, 01:33:57 PM ---Cool, a controversy!

I need to get a Lancer/Excaliber tech here and you guys can duke it out, but if so, remember Play Nice!  ;D

--- End quote ---

We tried low bleed additive from Excalibur with Wilflex GNS and Excalibur 500 series. Which is about same line of ink. It didn't improve bleeding resistance to acceptable level.  We achieved best results with Wilflex underbase grey and same product from Printop.  But way better than this are WB inks which we use for Transfers. Mostly they are special silver inks. In Europe they are called "Subliblocker" inks.

In one of really high end Transfers printshop i saw special black ink used as bleed stopper. It was a special ink mixed with carbon.  But they wouldn't reveal me anything. Anyone familiar with this?

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