"He who marches out of step hears another drum." ~ Ken Kesey
Quote from: Binkspot on May 11, 2012, 10:28:44 PMNo trouble always looking to improve our operation. I know if Megan coats and we use those times the image either is a bitch to get out or wont come out because the way she coats is diffrent and the stencil is not as deep.May I suggest that Megan and you both, if you don't already, use the glisten method which should get your EOM's closer together, whether it takes one of you more strokes or less strokes. The end result will be similar.This was one of the first articles here. http://www.theshirtboard.com/index.php/topic,2621.0.html
No trouble always looking to improve our operation. I know if Megan coats and we use those times the image either is a bitch to get out or wont come out because the way she coats is diffrent and the stencil is not as deep.
I didn't think of that Alan. You are right, even with a 2/2 round side I do get drips on the edges. You know of any high solids emulsion that will hold up well with discharge? I'm trying to stick with one emulsion but the more I research the more I find one emulsion may not do it for everything.
cant believe you are exposing 110 at 70 ltu on a 3140. I expose for 28 ltu on the same model and at my old shop on an old 3140 I also exposed at 28 ltu. QTX or Kiwo Discharge, they both expose the same. Thats odd you need 70 ltu.
Couple of comments/questions.Alan, how long did you expose that screen? That's pretty thick on yellow mesh. On my exposure unit that thickness would take about 40ltu. Related question for Brian, can you calibrate the 3140? I know with my nuarc light source and integrator you can calibrate the photo cell to get the cell calibrated to 100 which means one ltu equals roughly one second. I'd probably still post expose with that stencil thickness too.I guess the most important question for the Orange to the end all be all, would be discharge and waterbased performance without hardening.