proper way to sep/print 2 white screens of same image

[shellyky]

Wats the proper way to seperate 2 white screens of the same image (to avoid revolver)...should i just burn the same thing 2x? should i choke one?? if so, the top or the bottom?  I had sent out a file to be done as a test and they had choked the top white.

Are there any tips on figuring out "which one to move" when it doesnt line up 100%?  when its just slightly off i have a heck of a time figuring out which one was the one i just printed in order to figure out which one to move--magnifying glass helps a little but im still just guessing.

And finally, for white on black done this way, what are your screen mesh #'s of choice? 

thanks 

[inkman996]

My trick for registering is after printing the first white I put a piece of scotch tape over each bulls eye then line up the second white and print it. I can easily tell which bulls eye is the top one because it is on top of the tape. Hope that helps.

[SkylinePrints]

I dont choke either.  I burn the same image twice.  First hit on I use a 230, then the second is a 158.  The ink deposit is different from each screen so I can tell which one is off.

This is what work for me but I'm sure some others will join in how they do it. 

[Dottonedan]

To me, if te art is solid as in no halftone dots, and you are printing white over white, you have no reason to choke one or the other. Your concern should be to have it registered dead in. Inkmann has a good method. It's also what Pierre uses.

The white is intended to be 100% white (all over).
So why choke it?  You normally only choke a color so the it does not peak out the side and show it's color. In this case, white is white. If it's off a little, it won't ve noticed.

The only reason I can see choking I guess is to help maintain a clean edge. If that is the goal, then you would choke the top color for sure.

Imagine how they build peramids. They get smaller as they get higher. If they did the opposite of that, the 2nd layer would collapse over the first and you would see a stair step down. That would give you a funky edge. So if you feel the need to choke, choke the top color.

[blue moon]

To me, if te art is solid as in no halftone dots, and you are printing white over white, you have no reason to choke one or the other. Your concern should be to have it registered dead in. Inkmann has a good method. It's also what Pierre uses.

The white is intended to be 100% white (all over).
So why choke it?  You normally only choke a color so the it does not peak out the side and show it's color. In this case, white is white. If it's off a little, it won't ve noticed.

The only reason I can see choking I guess is to help maintain a clean edge. If that is the goal, then you would choke the top color for sure.

Imagine how they build peramids. They get smaller as they get higher. If they did the opposite of that, the 2nd layer would collapse over the first and you would see a stair step down. That would give you a funky edge. So if you feel the need to choke, choke the top color.

as mentioned already, the clear tape over registration marks solves the issue. As far as the choking, I do not unless there is a specific reason. The edges on the print are not as crisp if they do not line up. Make them both the same size.

When would I choke? If the screens are not identical and there is a gradient. Hitting the halftone twice will make it gain too much so I'll split the screens and then I might have to choke a little.

[shellyky]

thanks guys, great advice!

[tpitman]

I have a repeat order that I keep on press practially all the time unless for some reason I need a seventh or eighth color. It's normally a lime green upper left chest imprint about 3 x 3 inches on black shirts. The white underbase is choked slightly. I occasionally print the job as white on red shirts. I find that the job looks better printing the white through both screens instead of a double hit of the overprint screen. The text has fine serifs and there's a descender with a thin outline that reveals the shirt color as it passes through the art that wants to plug up if I p/f/p the overprint screen. Could be my technique that's poor on the second pass that would squoze the overprint out past it's own edge, but I've just started using the underbase.

[shellyky]

just tried the tape trick --just took 2 test prints to dial it in!  Great time saver--thanks inkman.   

[mk162]

i do one of several things...1, i use a very light gray as an underbase.  2, i very lightly color the first reg mark with a blue magic marker.  3, the tape trick

[3Deep]

Good ideas guys shoot I just line up my screens as normal, but I do burn the white on different mesh counts so the white want be so thick (bullet Proof)