Discharge base, then plastisol???

[screenprintguy]

I just saw a vid of Alan doing a print, discharge under base, then plastisol on finish. Alan, and anyone else doing this method.

1-Are you activating your UB any different then when you are just printing discharge normally?

2-Is there anything special needing to be added to the plastisol to make it adhere to the shirt over the water based discharge?

3-How is a simulated process plastisol print over a discharge under base coming out?

4-Can you use white discharge as your base?

[ericheartsu]

I just saw a vid of Alan doing a print, discharge under base, then plastisol on finish. Alan, and anyone else doing this method.

1-Are you activating your UB any different then when you are just printing discharge normally?

2-Is there anything special needing to be added to the plastisol to make it adhere to the shirt over the water based discharge?

3-How is a simulated process plastisol print over a discharge under base coming out?

4-Can you use white discharge as your base?

We do it all the time. We use matsui discharge white and discharge base .Make sure you flash your discharge white base so it doesn't pick up. With Discharge base it's best to not flash it, as there are spots that will show up.

When you put your garment through the dryer, test your cure time, as if it's to fast the discharge won't cure correctly, if it's to slow your plastisol may stick or bubble.

[screenprintguy]

Thanks man, I'm going to give it a try!

Mike

[tonypep]

Base to white ratio typically 70/30 or 80/20. Straight white is pretty chalky
tp

[alan802]

I just saw a vid of Alan doing a print, discharge under base, then plastisol on finish. Alan, and anyone else doing this method.

1-Are you activating your UB any different then when you are just printing discharge normally?

2-Is there anything special needing to be added to the plastisol to make it adhere to the shirt over the water based discharge?

3-How is a simulated process plastisol print over a discharge under base coming out?

4-Can you use white discharge as your base?

I tried printing plastisol directly on a white discharge and it did not work.  I think you have to base down the white discharge around 80% regular discharge base, 20% white discharge and then you can print on top of it with a plastisol but I haven't tried it yet.

We did a sim process on discharge base the other day and the print turned out much better than it did with a white plastisol base but we ran into issues with the discharge ink seeping to the shirt side of the screen at the edges of the tape and having misprints, but I never found out why it was happening.  We've printed discharge enough and have never had this issue. 

We do nothing different on either the discharge base or plastisol as we do if printing them alone, it's the exact same as plastisol underbasing but you don't really need to flash.  I do flash just for a second or so for some reason I really don't know why, just do. 

If I can figure out why I had seepage on the discharge screen I'll continue to use it more and more, but that job was 2500 pieces and we had to stop every 20 minutes or so to wipe down the screen and check for leakage and out of all those shirts, we had 20 misprints that had the discharge lines around where the edges of the tape was.

[tonypep]

Alan try hardenerX fromCCI. Designed to use in conjunction with there emulsion but it could work with what you use. It is a sodium hydroxide solution. I call it insurance
tp

[IntegrityShirts]

Base to white ratio typically 70/30 or 80/20. Straight white is pretty chalky
tp

This is a good recommendation for a successful BRIGHT white base under plastisol.  And I agree Tony, straight white discharge is chalky and I don't see how plastisol could play well over top of that.

I have done a few jobs of just matsui bright base with cmyk over top and they turned out great.  A highlight white thinned plastisol at the end would be icing on the cake and add no more feel to the garment than the process inks.

[Homer]

I'll be doing a sim process design with a discharge base. I think my mix of 50% base and 50% white needs to be closer to your 70/30. . .and come to think of it, Rick did tell me that. . .I'll base down my HW too. I hope I can pull this off, I can always flash the base if I have to but I want to try this guy wow. . I'll put the screens in the sun for a bit to see if that helps with the hardening. . do you guys think 1/1 coating on emulsion is sufficient for a discharge base white? I think I'm dragging two threads in here, I'll start a new.

side note -Atlas was out of Sericol base but the fellow told me I can use the matsui bright base with the same results. . true? I have some here, maybe worth a shot on a small run.

[tonypep]

2 over two definitely......insurance against leaks!

[Prosperi-Tees]

2 over 2 and post expose in the sun but make sure you dont underexpose initially.

[alan802]

I was hoping not to have to use another additive and I've done 500-800 piece runs before and not had the issues I was having the other day. The screen wasn't breaking down in the sense that I think that it would, it was like the ink was seeping out of the tape on the inside of the screen but i never found any evidence at all that the ink got throu the barrier layer of tape.  I'll take some pics of what the misprints looked like and the screen if I ever have time. We have printed more shirts in the last two weeks than any two week period we've been open, almost 20k imprints in the last 8 days.  Not bad for a small crew.  We normally do lots of small runs, but lately we've had 6 jobs over 1k pieces, one 2500 front/back and several more 600-800 piece ones. It's been a little ridiculous but it's a good thing.

[Prosperi-Tees]

I usually tape inside and out and tape almost the whole back of the screen well at least as far as the squeegee/flood travel

[screenprintguy]

Hey Alan, just sent you an email with a ton of trial/error info.

[Sbrem]

We experimented with this a number of years ago, and found a discharge base, not white, for the underbase, then the top colors including a highlight white
on 230, was working best for us. We haven't done it in a long time though, we're not that crazy about the smell...

Steve

[alan802]

Hey Alan, just sent you an email with a ton of trial/error info.

Got it Mike, thanks.  One thing different with this last run is the emulsion.  I was using the 925WR as a matter of fact on past runs and had changed to the CP Tex recently and this was the first run of significant numbers with it so it's probably just not as good of an emulsion as the 925.  I always post-expose so I guess I better bite the bullet and get some hardener in here for the longer runs and also switch back to the 925.  I had zero issues on 500+ shirts with no hardener with the 925 so I'm going back to it.