screen printing > Separations
I'm new to Sim Process Seps but I want to print this:
Screened Gear:
Once again I have to say you guys are trying to make an award winning print out of a simple get it done type of job.
For this print I would print the black ink first, photo and text all on the same screen. Do the 305 with 55 LPI but printing this manually (I'm guessing) make few passes to get enough black down. Then since your printing on ash or sports grey you need a high light white. I would do the same 305 with 55 LPI Thin the white if you have to. You could print it wet on wet or flash the black and print the highlight white. (I know sounds strange printing the black first)
To make it easier to print you could print a solid white square where the photo is and then print the black screen over that. You need to control your ink deposit or you will be cleaning the screen after a few of them. (do a smooth hard print so your don't push ink under the fine detail of the photo. if you print "not hard enough" the photo with get darker and darker as you print. You will have to clean the bottom of the screen.)
Itsa Little CrOoked:
Yes Tom, I have to greyscale option. I might print some films with greyscale seps and shoot them and see what it looks like.
Jon, oh yes, manual sorry. 6/4 Hopkins. Not ready for an auto yet. Did you mean just two plates? (Black and white.) What do you thin your white with? All I keep is Soft Hand Clear, Curable Reducer and Viscosity Buster---all Wilflex, as is most of my plastisol. I don't keep plastisol bases, since I don't have a color matching system, other than my discharge stuff which is Matsui.
Prosperi-Tees:
I did a couple of these grayscale print this past week. The first was a discharge white square underbase on a 230 and a 45 lpi on a 230 for the black, came out decent for what it is. The second one I did was on the auto with a 50 dpi on a 305 and had to reburn several screens because the dot gain was horrible. It was a vector image and I ended up going 20% and 35% on the black and still was to saturated but was acceptable. I say you have to practice because alot of times you have to get it done with 1 stroke and if you do 2 its just to dark so play with percentages and watch dot gain.
Screened Gear:
--- Quote from: Itsa Little CrOoked on April 13, 2012, 09:09:46 PM ---Yes Tom, I have to greyscale option. I might print some films with greyscale seps and shoot them and see what it looks like.
Jon, oh yes, manual sorry. 6/4 Hopkins. Not ready for an auto yet. Did you mean just two plates? (Black and white.) What do you thin your white with? All I keep is Soft Hand Clear, Curable Reducer and Viscosity Buster---all Wilflex, as is most of my plastisol. I don't keep plastisol bases, since I don't have a color matching system, other than my discharge stuff which is Matsui.
--- End quote ---
You can do that design
with just a black and a white.
blue moon:
--- Quote from: Screened Gear on April 13, 2012, 11:55:54 PM ---
--- Quote from: Itsa Little CrOoked on April 13, 2012, 09:09:46 PM ---Yes Tom, I have to greyscale option. I might print some films with greyscale seps and shoot them and see what it looks like.
Jon, oh yes, manual sorry. 6/4 Hopkins. Not ready for an auto yet. Did you mean just two plates? (Black and white.) What do you thin your white with? All I keep is Soft Hand Clear, Curable Reducer and Viscosity Buster---all Wilflex, as is most of my plastisol. I don't keep plastisol bases, since I don't have a color matching system, other than my discharge stuff which is Matsui.
--- End quote ---
You can do that design
with just a black and a white.
--- End quote ---
yup, black and white for a smaller run. If there is more money, you can throw in a dark gray.
Open the image in grayscale and use the curves in photoshop to isolate the highlights, mid tones and shadows. Make the highlights the white screen, mid tones gray and shadows black. Than play with it until it looks good on the monitor. 'not very hard at all . . .
pierre
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