how would you print this?

[Parker 1]

BASE WHT-230
LT GOLD-280
186 RED-280
PMS #513 or LT. Violet-280
H.L. WHT-280

at 55 lpi

[Ripcord]

For 25-50 of this I'd sub it out to someone with a DTG. This kind of design tends to look better when printed digitally...

bump that junk....make you money endless. just charge accordingly and you will be good.

That's what I meant...I'd rather spend my time printing a couple hundred spot color shirts and make five or six hundred bucks, plus farm out this job for another hundred or so in profit. Also, no matter how meticulous you are with the halftones and the seps, it won't look like the image on the customer's monitor...I don't do DTG but this would be a perfect job for it...You'd be done printing in the amount of time it took to mess around with the seps and screens and registration. The customer would be happier with the finished product, and you'd make money.

[ebscreen]

50 minimum, discharge purple, yellow, white, all 280 mesh, 51.272654245 lpi.

[Screened Gear]

50 minimum, discharge purple, yellow, white, all 280 mesh, 51.272654245 lpi.

You really know your stuff. I usually go with a little higher line screen something like 51.272654246 LPI, I know, you don't think you would see a differance but it shows. LOL

[ebscreen]

I get real bad moire at that count, unless the moon is in the seventh house and the chair is against the wall.

[Screened Gear]

I get real bad moire at that count, unless the moon is in the seventh house and the chair is against the wall.

I hear you. I used to take my LPI to 10 decimal places but it was too hard to keep my pulse under 35 beats a min and print at decent pace. I guess you have to let quality suffer sometimes to get good production. 

[David005]

Ok, here it is, Hoodies "of course"  10 color sporty w/ 2 quartz. 6 color w/ flash.  So figure flash,cool,yellow,green,orange,flash,blue,pink - Whats the best way to keep from ink sticking to screens, lighten pressure on floods,(silicone).

[Printficient]

actual file is 300 res

thinking white under , solid yellow , 1/2 tone pink , white high light

On my manual I would P/F/P the white using it as the underbase and the showing white. Then depending how accurate your press and you are at printing, print the yellow and pink meeting each other. (the seps have to be dead on and you have to hold the dots.) I wouldn't do this at a really high LPI. I think a little larger dot would look better with this design (it is a seventy’s or eighty’s looking design). Maybe a 40 LPI.  If you want to make sure your ok. I would print a full yellow flash then the pink on top or the other way around if you have a really sticky yellow on that much coverage.

Why oh MHM owner would you put this on your manual?

[Screened Gear]

actual file is 300 res

thinking white under , solid yellow , 1/2 tone pink , white high light

On my manual I would P/F/P the white using it as the underbase and the showing white. Then depending how accurate your press and you are at printing, print the yellow and pink meeting each other. (the seps have to be dead on and you have to hold the dots.) I wouldn't do this at a really high LPI. I think a little larger dot would look better with this design (it is a seventy’s or eighty’s looking design). Maybe a 40 LPI.  If you want to make sure your ok. I would print a full yellow flash then the pink on top or the other way around if you have a really sticky yellow on that much coverage.

Why oh MHM owner would you put this on your manual?

Shawn has the same manual as I do. So I wanted to tell him how I would run it on my manual. I still run all my jobs under 50 on my manual. I like printing manually. I am slowly putting more and more small jobs on the auto.

[mk162]

our manual collects dust, unless I can run it faster on the manual, it goes auto.

[Screened Gear]

our manual collects dust, unless I can run it faster on the manual, it goes auto.

I hear you. I will get there.

[Gilligan]

our manual collects dust, unless I can run it faster on the manual, it goes auto.

Why keep it then?

[islandtees]

For 25-50 of this I'd sub it out to someone with a DTG. This kind of design tends to look better when printed digitally...

bump that junk....make you money endless. just charge accordingly and you will be good.

That's what I meant...I'd rather spend my time printing a couple hundred spot color shirts and make five or six hundred bucks, plus farm out this job for another hundred or so in profit. Also, no matter how meticulous you are with the halftones and the seps, it won't look like the image on the customer's monitor...I don't do DTG but this would be a perfect job for it...You'd be done printing in the amount of time it took to mess around with the seps and screens and registration. The customer would be happier with the finished product, and you'd make money.

We have manual and auto. We would print this on our Brother GT782   It will come out much better than screenprinting for that many shirts and design. If you can sub it out, you would be better off.

[mk162]

I use it for sleeve prints and long leg prints.  I actually use it once or twice a month.  I am actually going to downsize it to probably a 4/1 or 1/1.  I don't need a 6/4.  It's a cheapo press though.  I could maybe get $100 for it.