Author Topic: Downloadable Ink Cost Calculator  (Read 9270 times)

Offline alan802

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Re: Downloadable Ink Cost Calculator
« Reply #15 on: February 29, 2012, 11:22:39 PM »
I don't have any of the 128 or 166.  The only thing I've tried is the 102 and today I stretched up 3 brand new M3's with 205 roller mesh so I'll get to see what that is all about.  I have narrowed my mesh choices down to two brands/types, the murakami S thread and the newman roller mesh.  I've never stretched a new frame in my life until today and I'm still getting used to the bolt mesh and I got the 205 up to 50 newtons and managed to keep the corners just right.  I busted a 180/48 murakami yesterday trying to stretch it but I think there was something in the channel that I didn't get on one of my old frames.  I could get used to stretching new frames all the time, it is nice. 
I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it -T.J.
Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigues of supporting it -T.P.


Offline ZooCity

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Re: Downloadable Ink Cost Calculator
« Reply #16 on: March 01, 2012, 04:45:09 AM »
Ironically, this far more expensive ink could be why you see slow print speeds and simultaneously a need for more open meshes. I've never pulled a single print with phthalate-laden ink but I'd wager those plasticizers made for easier printing ink.  Why else would you manufacture it with such a nasty family of chemicals?

Probably also why it was cheaper to some degree. Manufacturers rarely have to pay the true cost of making their product. When you consider the actual cost to us as a group, a nation, an economy, whatever,  of the health and environmental damage done those old school inks were the most expensive of all. But that's crazy anti-business talk, right? I must not want people to have jobs or something going around saying things like that.

I love open mesh counts. We use a wide range of tpi to print regular old prints going from 90/71 to 330/30.  The really open ones take skill to print with correctly. Is it harder on the auto as well?

Offline mk162

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Re: Downloadable Ink Cost Calculator
« Reply #17 on: March 01, 2012, 07:52:02 AM »
we had an employee that would have printed 4CP through a 110, and probably made it worked.  Ok, so not really, but he loved 110's, and he was amazing with them.

Offline Shawn (EIP)

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Re: Downloadable Ink Cost Calculator
« Reply #18 on: March 01, 2012, 10:39:56 AM »
I don't have any of the 128 or 166.  The only thing I've tried is the 102 and today I stretched up 3 brand new M3's with 205 roller mesh so I'll get to see what that is all about.  I have narrowed my mesh choices down to two brands/types, the murakami S thread and the newman roller mesh.  I've never stretched a new frame in my life until today and I'm still getting used to the bolt mesh and I got the 205 up to 50 newtons and managed to keep the corners just right.  I busted a 180/48 murakami yesterday trying to stretch it but I think there was something in the channel that I didn't get on one of my old frames.  I could get used to stretching new frames all the time, it is nice.

A trick I use on higher mesh is to cut out strips from scrap mesh and double layer the channels. 

Offline Homer

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Re: Downloadable Ink Cost Calculator
« Reply #19 on: March 01, 2012, 11:55:11 AM »
I don't have any of the 128 or 166.  The only thing I've tried is the 102 and today I stretched up 3 brand new M3's with 205 roller mesh so I'll get to see what that is all about.  I have narrowed my mesh choices down to two brands/types, the murakami S thread and the newman roller mesh.  I've never stretched a new frame in my life until today and I'm still getting used to the bolt mesh and I got the 205 up to 50 newtons and managed to keep the corners just right.  I busted a 180/48 murakami yesterday trying to stretch it but I think there was something in the channel that I didn't get on one of my old frames.  I could get used to stretching new frames all the time, it is nice.

A trick I use on higher mesh is to cut out strips from scrap mesh and double layer the channels.

that's the smartest thing you've ever said. . .  that will solve my problem. . .never thought of that. . .

and now back to the slipknot :P
...keep doing what you're doing, you'll only get what you've got...