creative underbasing for dark shirts

[Artelf2xs]

I put this is art because the  production art needs to be developed for this idea.

Traditionally screen printers use White ink to under-base colors on black and dark shirts. Here I show you that thinking out side the box creatively can both have great effect and save your client money on his product.

We under-base the films to keep them from toning down, or taking on the value of the shirt with out printing, flash curing and printing again.

Using this knowledge and a limited under-base we can get different values of color per screen. Also using a light color not White can really add color without additional set ups.

Here is one I just did and the clients budget only allowed for two colors on black. White really is not a color and it seemed yellow and the resulting tertiary orange would be more colorful.

Additionally I wrote a blog on the subject last year using a Blue under-base. It's accompanied with actual photos of the print on press as it progresses.. you can view it here...
http://artelf2xs.wordpress.com/2009/11/05/under-basing-colored-inks-on-dark-garments-does-it-have-to-be-white/

[Northland]

Thats' good info... yellow is the one color that I'm surprised to hear works as an underbase.
I dread printing yellow on BLACK (Wilflex MX or Union Mixo inks).... just can't seem to get good opacity without tripple hitting.

[Evo]

That design screams "discharge!!"

[Artelf2xs]

that would be three color :-P

[inkman996]

That blog post was awesome I cannot believe how good that shirt looks using a blue underbase!

[Evo]

that would be three color :-P

I could do that with gold and red discharge. 2 color, wet on wet.

[erickster]

I wish I could see the prints better. I like the idea. I've used grey as an underbase, but I'm afraid of using any color because I feel like the colors on top don't "pop" as much. I had a customer return some shirts because the red ink wasn't "red" enough. I had to go back and using lower mesh screens to get it to pop the way he wanted. Good info.

[Dottonedan]

I think the point in this post is to take notice of the potential opportunities to use other colors rather than the normal Base white.  I think a post generating a discussion like this is invaluable. I use gray's a good amount of the time. I'd much rather use gray than white, but I am excited to be reminded to take it a bit further and try something different. Granted, it's got to fit the art. Don't try a red underbase for spits n giggles.  LOL.

[Evo]

Granted, it's got to fit the art. Don't try a red underbase for spits n giggles.  LOL.

Indeed. I think many designs can be done w/ this approach - take the predominant light color as the underbase and overlay the darker colors over it.

[coopersdesign]

Elf,
How the hell are ya? Very nice idea. Would like to see a picture of the print pellon or a shirt?

I'm constantly working with customers who want a distressed or vintage look, but yet want bright colors. To me, if you want to keep that look consistent wouldn't you want to eliminate an underbase all together?

Ann

[Artelf2xs]

Ann, how are ya neighbor. Wow this is getting to be the old hood. I still have those trout we discussed, never got around to it...

Evo, I keep forgetting discharge come in colors now... have not messed with it since it was " New" and is Gildan dischargable? remember this is a Cheap Customer LOL

Thats' good info... yellow is the one color that I'm surprised to hear works as an underbase.
I dread printing yellow on BLACK (Wilflex MX or Union Mixo inks).... just can't seem to get good opacity without tripple hitting.

Originally I tried an Athletic gold as yellow is very translucent on  darks. But the bright yellow worked best. Several thing to keep in mind here... one ..is that very little of the designs are Solid bright ink areas, so they tend to look brighter then they are.  as opposed to large solid areas. Two, I designed it with the idea in mind!  and Three last but not least....I used a 45 DPI dot on 156 mesh!

 I have to train my printers not to print solid ink.... or to cover the shirt up. that's just so old school. But that is the basis of this post.... trying things that others say is Wrong or wont work or can't be done can lead to creative new concepts, ideas and techniques that can take us who knows where.

I too use gray more often then white, it adds to the midrange what topped with a limited white .

[Artelf2xs]

Ann said-

if you want to keep that look consistent wouldn't you want to eliminate an underbase all together?

I'm not sure what you mean by consistant?  the under-base is to create two distinctive values ... one where the ink obsorbes into the garment and one where it sits on a solid plastic patch. then there is tertiary color blending from wet on wet and screen pickup of more colors.

[Artelf2xs]

I will post actual shirt print images tomorrow. the results where really great.

Notice on this image from my blog... and actual cell phone snap pf a shirt on press, the two distinctive reds from one screen. the lobster which had blue flashed underneath and the red right on the shirt in the lower righth hand corner.

[screenxpress]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looked like he used blue for underbase (under red and white parts) and for the blue solids similar to how I (or many of us) would use white for the underbase (under the blue and red parts) and for the white solids.  I typically do not use a highlight white screen.  Please keep the "catcalls" to a minimum on that.

It's just a different way of thinking to build the color image screens, but still using the underbase for dual duty.  Right?  I suppose you could pick almost any color from an image for dual duty if you take the time to merge the plates to add the part for underbase to the selected color screen and then print in the right sequence.

I think that's quite a bit different than making a halftone underbase screen and using gray to help with the opacity.  Or am I just jerking off?   

[sportsshoppe]

Nice Tut... May I ask what kind or brand of ink you use. I love the thought of loosing the leather feel of solid underbase. Also how do you go about seeing what its gonna look like on screen when your desgin is made ?