Machine differences? Specs, reliability, etc?

[Audifox]

Excellent.  Yeah I don't intend on doing my own digitizing unless it's simple text and I feel confident.  I'm just trying to learn the ins and outs of this machine via some files that exist and settings within this software.

Got new thread, new bobbins, new needles and it's still breaking thread.

So when I get to the shop today I'm going to pull the cover and follow coldesi's hook timing PDF as well as checking for burrs on the hook itself.  Tensions have been played with across the board to no avail, so I think there's something else going on.  It's not breaking the needles just fraying the thread after a few stitches and doesn't catch the bobbin thread consistently.

What speed do you all run your machines?  This one looks to have been run at 850 stitches per minute.  Just wondering what the norm is once it is finely tuned!

It definitely sounds like timing might be out. You might also look at the bobbin case. This can cause problems as well.

 Do you know how to do "I" or "H" tests? Your bobbin thread should be 1/3 of the total thread showing on the back.
http://www.coldesi.com/support/General-Embroidery-Machine-Support/top-tension-knob-too-loose-or-too-tight-h-test.html

Your bobbin should drop an inch when you give it a shake. This is a rule of thumb for proper tension for your bobbin.

Start at needle 1 and work your way across. You will be able to see if your top tension has to be tightened or loosened.

Everybody is different but I run mine at approx. 75 % of what the machine will run at. One machine maxs out @ 1000 SPM I run this one @750. It also depends on the garments you are sewing. Some things sew better if you sew them a little slower.
Audra

[bj]

If it is fraying the threads and not breaking the needles -2 things come to mind:
1. Sometimes fraying of the thread and not catching the bobbin can come from the needle not being turned at the right angle.  The eye of the needle should be turned a hair to the right.  A lot of people put it straight on but I was taught early on to have it turned a hair to the right so it catches the bobbin better.
2. By far, the most common source of needle-related problems, is the needle coming
in contact with the needle plate. As it sews, the point of the needle may be
deflected slightly as it pierces the fabric being sewn.  If a mild deflection
occurs, the needle will pass very close to the inside edge of the needle plate hole,
possibly grazing it. This in turn may allow the upper thread (being carried by the
needle) to rub along the edge of the needle plate hole as well, resulting in thread
shreds.  It may be a matter of the plate needing some adjusting so there is less contact occurring thus no more friction. 

[IntegrityShirts]

Thanks you two! I did get it up and running correctly today. I checked hook timing and it was correct but the clearance between the hook and needle (front to back) was too large, like over 1/16" when it's supposed to be the thickness of a piece of paper. Did the H test and dialed in the first six heads before running out of time for the day.

So glad it was something I could fix without a tech. Going to get the rest of the heads dialed in and run some more tests. BJ thanks for the needle advice, all mine are installed facing forward.

Audi I was watching videos all day on coldesi's site and reading up on embroidery in general. I used their hook timing pdf.

[Homer]

so you guys like rayon over poly? I have nothing but poly, I was told to not use rayon because the color washes out and it's more prone to thread breaks?!  I'm using Madiera polyneon. . .

Good one BJ, I never heard of turning the needle eye to the right a bit, will be doing that on Monday!

[Get Shirts]

BJ, could you PM your price list as well?

[bj]

Done!  Let me know if you have any more questions!
Have a great day!

[Audifox]

so you guys like rayon over poly? I have nothing but poly, I was told to not use rayon because the color washes out and it's more prone to thread breaks?!  I'm using Madiera polyneon. . .

Rayon thread won't hold up to bleach. It will fade. Also if the embroidery spends a lot of time in the sun, it will fade. For doing small lettering I perfer rayon. I don't have problems with thread breaks using rayon.

[mk162]

All of those things are true homer.  Poly does last longer and have less breaks, but I get more looping while running it.  Also, like audio said, smaller letters look better with rayon.

Poly is just the newest thing out there and rayon has been around for ages, so a lot of people think it's better.  It's really what you like running and what works for you.  Me, I'll stick with rayon because our work looks better with it.

[IntegrityShirts]

Quick question now that I have it running well.  The 40-50lbs of thread that came with the machine is 95% rayon.  All the bobbins I bought are poly.  Does it matter if I run rayon thread colors and poly bobbin thread?  One the H test a customer walked in while it was sewing the first H.  When I came back out it was done sewing all 6 without a thread break, amazing haha!

[mk162]

most bobbins are poly.  I use magna glides and LOVE them.  I will never go back to paper sided bobbins...ever.

[Audifox]

Poly thread has come a long way from 15 yrs ago. One of the biggest things you have to remember with poly thread is it has a memory. If it has been stretched at all it will try to return to it's original length.
The biggest thing I hate about poly thread is the static. I have a humidifier running between two machines and I still have to spray around the machine to keep the static down. You can stand there and watch it pull closer and closer to the tension knobs. I don't get that with rayon.
As for the machine, they generally work better if YOU are nowhere around it!

[mk162]

Correct, most poly now is made to sew and look more like rayon.  It's low elongation and has a higher tensile strength, but for some reason it loops like a son of a gun.  Also, it runs on a different tension than poly, so if you are like us and have both threads, you have to change your tension to make it sew better.

[Audifox]

Correct, most poly now is made to sew and look more like rayon.  It's low elongation and has a higher tensile strength, but for some reason it loops like a son of a gun.  Also, it runs on a different tension than poly, so if you are like us and have both threads, you have to change your tension to make it sew better.

You are right about the looping, that is a serious pain in the butt. I did come across a trick that does seem to help. Take a lighter to the place where it has looped after your finished.(run across loop qiuickly) It does shrink them up. It's not the best fix, but will do in a pinch.

[bj]

Another looping trick is- once the design is done, flip it over and with your small scissors run it back and forth over the bobbin stitching on the back of the design.  It helps pull it in. (With enough pressure but not so much that you will rip the bobbin stitches. )  This technique works particularly well over fill areas that have multiple loops or loose stitching.   It pulls it right in.   

[IntegrityShirts]

BJ, I sent you a PM for pricing info, did ya get it?!